East of Amman the road leaves the hills and crosses a flat, stony plain where, in the early eighth century, the Umayyad caliphs built a scattering of lodges, caravanserais and bathhouses. These are the Desert Castles, and the best known is Qasr Amra, a small bathhouse whose interior walls and ceilings are covered in some of the earliest surviving figurative frescoes in the Islamic world, with scenes of hunting, bathing, music and dancing. Nearby, Qasr Kharana is a square, fortress-like building with two floors of rooms around a courtyard, and Qasr Azraq, farther east, is a black basalt fort that served as a base in later centuries. Together they show a lighter side of the early Islamic rulers, who combined desert retreats with court life. This half-day guided trip from Amman handles the transport on a road that has little public transport, so it is the practical way to reach them.
How it works
A half-day itinerary usually covers Qasr Kharana and Qasr Amra, with Qasr Azraq or the town of Azraq added on a longer day. Expect a drive of about an hour each way on a good road across open desert. Your guide explains the purpose of each building, which is not obvious from the outside, and points out details such as the water channels, the arrowslits, the reception rooms and the bath chambers. Visits to each castle are short, often twenty to forty minutes, because the buildings are small.
What to see
At Qasr Amra, the barrel-vaulted rooms of the bathhouse are decorated with painted figures, animals, a zodiac in the dome of the hot room and a ceiling showing the sky, all in a style that shows Byzantine and Persian influence. The paintings are fragile, so photography rules depend on the day, and you should follow the caretaker’s guidance.
Kharana looks like a fortress but was most probably a meeting place for local leaders and a stopping point on the desert routes, and you can climb to the roof for a view of the plain. Both sites are listed or protected, so treat the walls with care.
Making the most of it
These are quiet places with little shade, so go early in summer and carry plenty of water. Spring is the best season, when the plain is briefly green, and winter days can be cold and windy. Wear shoes with a good grip for the uneven floors and stairs.
The dark basalt landscape and the empty horizon give a very different impression from the hills of Amman, and the trip works well after you have seen the Citadel and its Umayyad Palace complex, since the contrast helps you see how these caliphs lived in the city and in the desert.
Because these sites sit away from towns, confirm that entry fees and any ticket for the frescoes are part of the arrangement, and carry small change.
Practical notes
Mobile signal can be patchy in the desert, so download maps and keep your driver’s number handy. There are few cafés along the route, so pack water and a snack, and take cash for small entry fees and the caretaker’s tip. If you are traveling in the hotter months, a morning start is the difference between a pleasant visit and an exhausting one. The trip pairs naturally with a late lunch Downtown on your return.
What to expect
The experience
A guided half-day drive east from Amman to the Umayyad desert castles, usually Qasr Kharana and Qasr Amra.
Best time
Spring and autumn mornings, when the desert is mild and the light is soft.
How long
About four to six hours including driving.
Tips
Bring water and a hat, wear sturdy shoes and follow the caretaker’s rules about photographing the frescoes.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers and anyone curious about early Islamic art and desert life.
- Families
- Older children who like castles will enjoy it, but there is little shade and each stop is short.
- Couples
- Quiet, atmospheric stops with big skies.
- Pair with
- The Amman Citadel Umayyad Palace and a Downtown lunch.
- Time needed
- Half a day.
Good questions
What are the Desert Castles?+
They are early eighth-century Umayyad buildings in the eastern desert, including lodges, bathhouses and forts, scattered along old desert routes.
Why is Qasr Amra famous?+
Its bathhouse interior is covered in frescoes of hunting, music and bathing, among the earliest figurative paintings in the Islamic world.
Can I reach them without a tour?+
Public transport is limited, so most visitors use a guided trip, a hired driver or a rental car.
How long is the drive?+
About an hour each way to the first castles, with more time if you add Azraq.
Is there shade?+
Very little. Visit early in hot months and carry water.
