Misti Volcano

Misti is the volcano that defines Arequipa. Its symmetrical, snow-dusted cone rises behind the cathedral towers from almost every street, and standing on the summit looking back at the city is one of the great trekking experiences of southern Peru. The ascent is normally done in two days, with an overnight at a high camp, and it is a serious undertaking rather than a stroll. The summit, at about 5,800 metres, lies in thin air, the final slopes are steep volcanic sand and scree, and the reward is a crater rim with sulphur vents, a sweeping view of the neighbouring volcanoes and, if the weather behaves, a sunrise that lights the whole of the Arequipa valley.

Most trips begin with a vehicle transfer from Arequipa to a trailhead on the volcano slopes, from which you walk for several hours to a base camp at around 4,500 metres. The trail climbs through ash and rock under a strong sun, with views opening up over the countryside below. You sleep in tents, or sometimes a basic shelter, with a hot meal prepared by the support team, and go to bed early because the summit push begins in the middle of the night.

The next stage is a slow, steady climb by headlamp, usually five to six hours, often in freezing temperatures, with frequent breaks to manage the altitude.

Reaching the crater rim around dawn is the payoff. Misti has a deep, steaming crater with yellow sulphur deposits, and a cross marks the summit. From here you can see the sister peaks Chachani and Pichu Pichu, the Colca region and, below, the checkerboard of Arequipa and its suburbs. The descent is quicker, often involving a controlled slide through the loose scree, and ends back at the trailhead by early afternoon.

The whole experience is physically demanding, and altitude sickness is a real risk; many guides recommend spending several days in Arequipa first, and some travellers prefer the shorter half-day trek to the lower slopes.

Choose an operator carefully. Look for a licensed guide, clear information on group size, equipment, emergency procedures and oxygen or first aid, and check what is included, such as meals, tents, sleeping bags and transport. Dress in layers with a warm jacket, hat and gloves, sturdy boots, sunglasses and high-factor sun cream, and carry plenty of water.

Fitness preparation pays off. In the weeks before, walk or hike regularly with a loaded daypack, build leg strength with stairs, and practise sustained climbing rather than short bursts. Pack a head torch with spare batteries, a warm hat and a windproof shell, and carry snacks that you can eat when your appetite is low at altitude.

Many operators also run an easier half-day trek to the lower slopes, which is a sensible test before committing to the summit. Tell your guide about any medical conditions before you set off, and agree a turnaround time for the summit so that you are never rushing the descent.