The Sillar Route

The nickname of Arequipa, the White City, comes from sillar, a pale volcanic tuff that has been used to build everything from houses to churches since colonial times. The Ruta del Sillar takes you to the source: the quarries on the edge of the city, where stone is still cut by hand in the traditional way, and to the Culebrillas Canyon, a narrow gorge carved into the volcanic rock. It is a short tour, often a half-day, and gives a sense of the material that defines the city identity. For architecture lovers, geology fans and curious travellers, it adds depth to the sights you see in the historic centre.

The quarries at Anashuayco are the star of the tour. Here, workers use hand tools to cut large blocks from the cliff face, a technique that has changed little in centuries, and you can watch them at work and see how the stone is shaped, smoothed and prepared for use.

The rock itself is soft when freshly cut and hardens with exposure, which is one reason it was so popular for colonial building. It is also light, a boon in a region prone to earthquakes, and its insulating properties help buildings stay cool in the day and warm at night.

Guides explain how the stone was used in everything from the cathedral to the arches around the Plaza de Armas.The Culebrillas Canyon, whose name refers to the snake-like twists of the gorge, is a short walk between rock walls where wind and water have carved smooth patterns into the stone. Some versions of the tour add petroglyphs, ancient rock carvings in the area, and rock pillars known as sillar forests.

These details differ between operators, so check the itinerary. The scenery is stark and photogenic, particularly in morning light, and walks are generally easy with no steep climbs, which makes the tour suitable for most travellers.

Because the tour is short and inexpensive, it fits easily into a full day in Arequipa, for example before a late-afternoon Santa Catalina visit or in combination with a countryside tour. Wear sturdy shoes and a hat, as the quarries are dusty and exposed, and carry water and small cash for tips.

Some operators combine the route with a visit to the Salinas lagoon or the Sabandia mill, which makes for a longer, more varied day. If you are interested in architecture, ask your guide to point out how sillar is used when you return to the old town, because you will start noticing it everywhere.

The tour also makes a useful contrast with the colonial sights. After seeing how the stone is cut, you will look differently at Santa Catalina, the cathedral and the mansions of the centre, noticing the thickness of walls, the shaped lintels and the vaulted ceilings built to cope with earthquakes. If you enjoy craft, some guides can introduce stone carvers who make small souvenirs, and buying directly supports the families who keep the tradition going.

It is an inexpensive, thoughtful way to fill a spare morning. Photographers should bring a wide lens for the canyon walls and a zoom for the workers, always asking permission before taking close portraits.