Ask Peruvians where the best food in the country is found and Arequipa is often in the conversation. The city has a distinct cuisine shaped by volcanic soils, fertile valleys and the nearby coast, and a culture of long, convivial lunches. For visitors, the pleasure is that the best food is not hidden: it is served in the picanterias, markets and small family restaurants that fill the old town and its surroundings. This guide covers the dishes to know, the places to look for, and tips for eating well without stress at altitude.
The picanteria tradition
A picanteria is a traditional lunch restaurant, historically a place where spicy dishes, known as picante, were served with chicha to workers and families. Most open at midday and serve until the food runs out, often in the late afternoon, and many are set in courtyards with long tables. Portions are generous and prices modest, and the menu may change by day of the week, with some dishes traditionally served only on certain days. Ask the staff for the speciality of the day. Going with a guide on a food tour is a good way to learn how it works before returning on your own.
Dishes to order
The icon is rocoto relleno, a large spicy red pepper stuffed with seasoned meat, topped with cheese and baked, usually served with a slice of potato gratin. Adobo is a rich pork stew often eaten as a hearty breakfast, while chupe de camarones is a thick shrimp soup associated with the river valleys. Ocopa is a sauce of herbs and nuts poured over potatoes, and soltero is a fresh salad of broad beans, cheese and onion. Cuy chactado, fried guinea pig, is a traditional dish for adventurous eaters. For a lighter option, ceviche and causa are widely available, and vegetarians can build meals from soups, salads, potatoes and cheese dishes with a little patience.
Drinks and sweets
Chicha de jora is a fermented corn drink with a long history, while the pisco sour is the national cocktail, made from pisco, lime, sugar syrup and egg white. Local beers, fresh juices and coca tea are common, and many cafes serve strong Peruvian coffee. For dessert, queso helado is the signature: a creamy milk ice cream flavoured with cinnamon and sometimes coconut, despite the name containing no cheese. Look also for local sweets, chocolate and bread from bakeries around the markets. Alcohol hits harder at altitude, so go gently on your first night.
Where to eat
The Plaza de Armas has many terrace restaurants with views, which are great for a sunset drink though often pricier. Streets in the old town hold smaller restaurants with set lunch menus, and the district of Yanahuara has picanterias with a local crowd. Markets such as San Camilo are good for juices, snacks and cheap lunches. For a guided introduction, take a food tour or a cooking class, which lets you taste widely and learn the ingredients. Book popular rooftops ahead at weekends, and carry small bills for tips.
Eating at altitude and staying well
Heavy meals can sit badly when you first arrive at 2,300 metres, so eat lightly on day one and drink water. Choose busy places with a high turnover, be careful with raw salads and ice if your stomach is sensitive, and carry a basic stomach remedy. Spicy rocoto can be very hot, so ask for a mild version or share a dish. Tell restaurants about allergies clearly, and know the Spanish words for the ingredients that affect you. With a little care, eating in Arequipa is one of the highlights of any trip, and a trip back for a second lunch is common.
Ordering and etiquette
Lunch is the main meal, usually between noon and three, and many picanterias close in the late afternoon, so plan your big meal accordingly and keep dinner light. Tipping of around ten percent is customary where service is not included, and it is polite to greet staff when you enter. Menus are often in Spanish only, so a few words help: picante means spicy, sin ají means without chilli, and para compartir means to share. If you are unsure, point at what neighbouring tables are eating and ask the staff.
A simple eating plan
For a first day, try a light lunch of soup and a juice from the market. On day two, book a food tour and have a proper picanteria lunch. On day three, try a pisco sour on a rooftop at sunset, and finish with queso helado for dessert. Add a cooking class if you want to bring the flavours home. This gradual approach lets you adjust to altitude and spice while still sampling the best of the city, and it leaves time to return to the places that impressed you most.