Pailon del Diablo

Pailon del Diablo is the waterfall that most people picture when they think of Banos. The Pastaza river narrows and plunges into a deep gap in the rock, creating a roaring white column of water that sends mist across the viewing paths. The name, Devil's Cauldron, comes from the churning pool at the base and the hollow, booming sound that fills the gorge. It lies roughly 18 kilometres east of town, at the end of the waterfall road, and is reached from the entrance by a trail with stone steps, small bridges and a narrow tunnel. Visitors can look at the falls from several levels. An upper lookout gives a wide view of the cascade, while lower paths take you into the spray itself, where a rock opening known as the Cauldron's mouth lets you stand beside the water. Expect to get wet, and expect to descend and climb numerous steps, which can be tiring at altitude. The reward is the sheer force of the water, particularly after rain, when the volume increases and the roar can be felt in your chest.

The tour linked here is a roughly three-hour excursion by chiva, the open-sided bus familiar across Ecuador. The ride is part of the appeal: you sit with other travellers on benches, the road follows the river, and the driver stops at viewpoints on the way. This format suits visitors who want the main waterfall without arranging taxis, and it is among the more affordable ways to reach it. Some similar tours add the Tree House swing or the Manto de la Novia cable car, so compare itineraries before choosing.

Entrance to the falls is normally paid at the site, and fees can change, so ask the operator whether the ticket is included. Opening hours are daytime only, and the site can feel busy in the late morning when tour groups arrive. Reaching it early or late in the day gives more space on the narrow paths. Expect queues at the best photograph points, and be patient with the slippery steps.

What to wear matters here more than most places. A rain jacket or poncho protects phones and cameras from spray, and shoes with grip are essential. A small waterproof bag is useful. Photographers should carry a lens cloth and shoot from the upper lookout if they want a dry frame. Those with limited mobility may prefer to view from the upper platform rather than descending to the lowest level.

For a fuller day, combine Pailon del Diablo with the Route of the Waterfalls, a cycling descent, or an ATV tour that continues along the river. Many visitors cycle downhill from town, visit the falls, and return by truck. Swimming at the base is not possible because of the currents, but several smaller pools along the route are used for splashing and photographs. Weather in the gorge is changeable, so always carry a layer.

A few extra details help. The site has stalls selling ponchos, snacks and souvenirs near the entrance, and toilets are available, though queues can form at midday. Footpaths are well maintained but narrow, so step aside for others when stopping to photograph. If the lower paths are closed after heavy rain, the upper lookout still gives a powerful view. Many visitors are surprised by how long they linger; the sound and spray are hypnotic, and an hour passes quickly. Allow a little time for a coffee or fresh juice nearby before heading back.