Most visitors never leave the eastern half of Mount Desert Island, but the western side offers a very different Acadia: quieter, more local and full of coves, working harbors and village main streets. Its centerpiece is Somes Sound, a deep inlet that nearly cuts the island in two. Geologists call it a fjard rather than a true fjord, but it is often described as the only fjord on the East Coast, and the steep granite walls plunging into dark water certainly feel Nordic. You can drive along it on Route 102 and Route 198, stop at overlooks such as the Somes Sound view on the road to Northeast Harbor, and pause in Somesville, the island's oldest settlement, where a white footbridge over a mill pond is one of the most photographed scenes on Mount Desert Island. Northeast Harbor is a yachting village with a lovely marina, elegant shops and nearby gardens, while Southwest Harbor is a working waterfront with lobster boats, a small museum of bird carvings, galleries and several good places to eat. Between the villages are trailheads for the western mountains, Echo Lake for swimming, and roads that wind through spruce and granite with few crowds. A self-guided driving audio tour of Mount Desert Island is the inexpensive way to do it with commentary; the drive and the viewpoints themselves are free.
How to do it
The loop from Bar Harbor takes you west on Route 233 to Somesville, south on Route 102 down the west side of the sound to Southwest Harbor, east through Manset and Seal Cove, and back via Northeast Harbor and Route 3, a route of around forty miles that can take a leisurely half day or a full day with stops.
Take your time, because the road is winding and the pull-offs are small. You can also take the free Island Explorer shuttle on some of these routes in season, which saves parking trouble. A guided small-group tour handles driving and explanation, which can be worthwhile on a day with limited time.
Where to stop
In Somesville, walk the footbridge and visit the historical society for local history. In Northeast Harbor, stroll the waterfront, browse the shops and check the gardens nearby. In Southwest Harbor, visit the small museum of bird carvings if open, eat at a lobster pound such as those clustered around the harbor and watch boats come and go.
At Echo Lake, a beach on the park side offers freshwater swimming and a quieter alternative to Sand Beach. Acadia Mountain and St. Sauveur offer moderate hikes with views of the sound, and the carriage roads reach the western side as well. If you have a boat, kayaking in the sound is a spectacular way to see the cliffs.
Who it suits
This is the right choice for travelers who have seen the headline sights and want something calmer, for return visitors, for photographers and for people who prefer villages and harbors to crowds and traffic. It also works as a rainy-day or foggy-day drive, because the villages have indoor attractions and cozy restaurants.
Pair it with an evening at Bass Harbor Head Light and a lobster dinner for a classic quiet-side day. Check opening times for small museums and shops, which vary seasonally, and remember that the western villages have fewer services than Bar Harbor, so fill the gas tank and carry snacks.
What to expect
The experience
A scenic loop around the western side of Mount Desert Island with Somes Sound views, village stops, lobster pounds and quieter trailheads.
Best time
Weekday mornings; late summer and early fall for color; foggy days for atmosphere.
How long
Half a day to a full day.
Tips
Fill your tank, carry snacks, check small museum hours and use pull-offs carefully on winding roads.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Return visitors and anyone who wants a quieter, more local side of the island.
- Families
- Good for a relaxed day with lobster, swimming at Echo Lake and short walks.
- Couples
- Scenic drives, harbor views and a good dinner.
- Pair with
- Bass Harbor Head Light at sunset.
- Time needed
- Half a day to a full day.
Good questions
Is Somes Sound really a fjord?+
It is often called the only fjord on the East Coast, though geologists classify it as a fjard. Either way, it is a deep, steep-sided glacial inlet.
How long does the loop take?+
A half day with a few stops, or a full day with a hike, a swim and a long lunch.
Can I do it without a car?+
Partly. The Island Explorer shuttle serves some western routes in season, and guided tours cover the area by van.
Where can I eat?+
Southwest Harbor and Bass Harbor have several lobster pounds and casual restaurants, and Northeast Harbor has cafes and shops.
Is it crowded?+
Much less than Bar Harbor or the Park Loop Road, though sunset spots can fill.