Rhine Ferries

Basel is one of the few cities in Europe where you can cross a major river on a ferry with no engine. Four small wooden boats, known locally as Faehri, are attached to a cable stretched high above the Rhine, and the ferryman angles the rudder so that the force of the current itself pushes the boat from one bank to the other. The crossing takes a couple of minutes and is almost completely silent apart from the water and the creak of the cable, which makes it one of the most peaceful experiences in the city. Each ferry has its own name and character. The Muensterfaehre, the Leu, crosses just below the minster, the St. Johann ferry, the Ueli, serves the northern waterfront, the Klingental ferry, the Vogel Gryff, links the lively Kleinbasel bank with the old town, and the St. Alban ferry, the Wild Maa, runs near the paper mill quarter. Their names recall the symbols of the old town guilds, and the ferrymen are proud of a tradition that goes back to the nineteenth century.

The ferries are real public transport as well as a tourist attraction. Locals use them to commute and to reach the riverside bars, and the fare is modest, paid in small coins or by simple tickets on board according to the operator. Check the current arrangements at the landing before you ride, because payment methods and prices can change. The ferries usually do not run at night or in very bad weather or high water, and hours are shorter in winter.

The best crossing for a visitor is probably the one below the minster. From the Grossbasel landing you board beneath the cathedral terrace, drift across to Kleinbasel with a clear view of the red towers above you, and arrive among the cafes and bars of the opposite bank. Return on a different ferry, or on the same one, to see the minster again from the water. On a warm evening, with swimmers in the river and a drink waiting on the bank, it is a lovely ritual.

There are also seasonal specials. In the lead up to Christmas, a decorated ferry offers a festive crossing with lights and seasonal treats, and tourist office events sometimes add themed sailings. In summer the river steps by the ferry landings become impromptu beaches, so a short ride makes a nice break between museums.

Practical tips are simple. Hold on to children, because the boat rocks a little, and keep bags clear of the edge. Stand or sit anywhere on the deck, follow the ferryman if he asks you to move for balance, and remember that the boat crosses on a fixed cable, so there is no steering to fear. Wheelchair and pushchair access varies by landing, so check ahead if you need a step free route.

Allow about fifteen minutes to enjoy a crossing and photograph the minster, and more if you make a loop that uses two ferries. It costs very little and gives you one of the most characteristic views of Basel, which is why almost every first-time visitor ends up taking it at least once.