Swimming in the Rhine

Swimming in the Rhine is the most Basel thing you can do in summer. On warm days thousands of locals slip into the river after work, drift downstream with the current past the minster and the old town, and climb out at one of the stepped landings. The river here is clean, cold and quick, and the sight of heads and bright dry bags bobbing along the water is something you will not see in many other European cities. The key accessory is the Wickelfisch, a brightly coloured waterproof bag that closes with a roll and holds your clothes, phone and wallet. You tow or hug it as you swim, and it doubles as a float. They are sold in shops and kiosks across town, and many visitors buy one as a souvenir. Along the banks, small riverside bars called buvettes serve drinks and snacks, and sunbathing steps and promenades turn the waterfront into an open air living room from June to September.

Safety comes first. The Rhine is a powerful river, and the current is strong, especially after rain or snow melt in the Alps. Only confident swimmers should try it, never alone and never under the influence of alcohol. Children should stay out of the main current. Check the local advice for the day, which usually reports water temperature and flow, and respect any warning signs or flags. Avoid the area near the bridges and the cargo ship lanes, and keep to the side of the river that locals use.

Most people enter upstream of the old town, float for fifteen to twenty minutes and exit at a marked landing before the river leaves the city centre. Local guidance explains the usual entry and exit points, and you should get out well before the point where you plan to stop, because missing the landing means a long swim to the next one. The water is cool even in July, so a few minutes of acclimatisation helps.

If you would rather not swim, there are plenty of ways to enjoy the same river culture. Walk the promenade on the Grossbasel side with an ice cream, claim a spot on the steps by the Pfalz, or settle in a buvette on the Kleinbasel bank, where the view back to the minster is hard to beat at sunset. The ferries and the paddleboard operators offer other ways to get on the water.

The season runs from roughly June to September, depending on the weather, with the warmest and most reliable days in July and August. Mornings are quiet, and late afternoons and early evenings are the most social. Bring a towel, sun protection and flip flops, because the steps and paths can be rough and hot.

Come with respect for local habits. Basel swimmers are friendly, but the river is also a place where people go to switch off after work, so keep music low, take your rubbish with you and follow the signs. Done carefully, a Rhine float is the highlight of a summer stay and the best answer to the question of what Basel is really like.

Local tourism offices and swim clubs publish daily water and flow information in season, and it is wise to look at it before you start. If conditions are poor, the promenades and ferries remain a pleasure, and you can try the float on another day.