For a city of under two hundred thousand people, Basel has an extraordinary cultural life. It has dozens of museums, a world famous art fair each June, buildings by some of the best known architects of the age and a tradition of patronage that goes back to the Renaissance. The reasons are partly historical, since Basel was a centre of printing and humanism where Erasmus and Holbein worked, and partly modern, because the wealth of local industries has been poured into collections and architecture. This guide helps you plan a visit that fits your interests and your time.
Start with the oldest
The Kunstmuseum Basel is the oldest public art collection in the world, founded on a private cabinet bought by the city in 1661. Its core is a superb group of works by Hans Holbein the Younger and his contemporaries, followed by Dutch and Flemish masters, nineteenth century Swiss painters, Impressionists and one of the great Cubism collections, with Picasso, Braque and Leger. A visit takes two to three hours, and it is easy to reach on foot from the old town. Most weeks it is closed on Mondays.
Then the modern masters
The Fondation Beyeler in Riehen is the other must see, a long, light filled pavilion by Renzo Piano set among lawns and a pond of water lilies. The collection includes Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso, Rothko, Giacometti and Warhol, and temporary exhibitions of single artists regularly draw visitors from across Europe. Tram 6 from the centre takes about twenty minutes. Book a timed ticket in busy weeks.
Something playful
The Museum Tinguely beside the Rhine is dedicated to the Swiss kinetic sculptor Jean Tinguely, whose machines of scrap metal wheeze, clatter and spin when you press a button. The Mario Botta building is handsome, the cafe terrace looks over the river, and children love it. Do not miss the Tinguely Fountain on the Theaterplatz, a free and always open delight with moving figures.
Architecture across the border
The Vitra Campus in Weil am Rhein is a park of landmark buildings by Frank Gehry, Zaha Hadid, Herzog and de Meuron and others, with a design museum and a showroom. It is a half day trip by tram 8, so bring your passport or identity card. Back in Basel, look out for buildings by Herzog and de Meuron, the Basel firm that designed the Tate Modern, including the striking roof of the Museum der Kulturen on the Munsterplatz.
World cultures and crafts
The Museum der Kulturen is the largest ethnographic museum in Switzerland, with masks, textiles and ritual objects from across the world. The Basler Papiermuehle, the Swiss Museum of Paper, Writing and Printing, is a working medieval mill where you can make paper and try old presses. Both are small enough to see in an hour or two, and both work well on a wet day.
Planning your days
For two days of art, spend the first in the old town and the Kunstmuseum, the second at the Fondation Beyeler and the Museum Tinguely. For three days, add the Vitra Campus or the paper mill. Group the sights by area to save time: the old town museums are within easy walking distance of one another, while Riehen, the Tinguely and Weil am Rhein each need a tram.
Passes and tickets
Many Basel museums offer a joint museum pass for a set period, and the savings can be worthwhile if you plan to see three or more. Compare the cost with single tickets before you buy. Students and children often get reduced entry, and some museums have free or reduced evenings. Check opening days in advance, since Monday closures are common.
Art Basel and the fair season
In June the city hosts one of the largest contemporary art fairs in the world, with galleries, satellite events and parties across town. Hotels fill and prices rise, so book very early if you plan to attend. If you would rather enjoy the museums in peace, avoid that week and choose spring or autumn.
A final tip
Leave time between museums. Basel is a city for cafes and riverside walks, and some of its best experiences are the pauses, a coffee in a quiet square after the Kunstmuseum or a ferry crossing between two collections.
