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First Time in Belize

Belize guide

First Time in Belize

What to book ahead, how to get around Ambergris Caye, how many days you need and where Hol Chan, the Great Blue Hole, the ATM cave, Xunantunich and cave tubing fit.

Belize is two trips in one: a barrier-reef island and a jungle interior full of Maya ruins and caves. Most first-timers base on Ambergris Caye, in and around San Pedro Town, for the reef, and add mainland days for the caves and temples. Plan the split before you book, because the mainland sights are a flight or boat ride and a drive away, and a fair number of them are best done on an overnight rather than a rushed day.

What to book ahead

Three things sell out or can be cancelled: the Great Blue Hole day trip, the ATM cave tour and your flights. The Great Blue Hole is a full day of around twelve hours with a two-hour crossing each way, and it depends on the weather, so book it early in your stay and keep a spare day. The ATM cave uses licensed guides and limited group sizes, so reserve it before you arrive. Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley are easier, with several trips every day, but still book a day or two ahead in high season. Sunset sails and the San Pedro food tour are best booked on your first day.

How to get to the island

From Belize City, short flights to San Pedro take around fifteen to twenty minutes, and water taxis make the crossing in an hour or more. Flights are quicker and the views are good, while the boat is cheaper and gives you a first look at the cayes. Either way, allow for luggage limits on the small planes.

Getting around

San Pedro is small and flat. Walk in town, rent a golf cart for the south end and the resorts, and use the water taxi for Caye Caulker. Tours include hotel or dock pickup, which keeps logistics simple. For the mainland, hire a driver or join a tour, and consider renting a car only if you are comfortable with rural roads.

How many days

Five nights is the minimum to enjoy the reef and one mainland trip: two days on the water, one for the Great Blue Hole, one mainland day and a rest day. A week lets you split the stay, with four nights on Ambergris Caye and two or three in Cayo, which makes the ATM cave and Xunantunich much easier. Ten days add Caye Caulker, Lamanai and Belize City.

Where the headline sights fit

Put Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley on day one or two, since they are an easy half day and set the tone. Save the Great Blue Hole for the middle of the trip when you know the weather. In Cayo, give the ATM cave its own day, and pair Xunantunich with cave tubing on another. Lamanai is a long day from Belize City, better for the end of a trip. Evenings are for the sunset sail and the food tour.

Weather and season

The dry season runs from roughly February to May and is the most comfortable time, with calm seas and clear water. The wetter months bring showers and hurricane risk, with the official season ending on 30 November, so keep your plans flexible in November, buy flexible bookings where you can and keep a buffer day before any international flight home. Rain can cancel boat trips and raise cave rivers, but the reef itself stays rewarding.

Practicalities

The Belize dollar is pegged at two to one with the US dollar and US cash is widely accepted. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a rash guard, insect repellent and a light rain jacket. Tap water is not always recommended for drinking, so use bottled or filtered water. Tipping guides and boat crews is customary.

Honest advice

Do not try to see everything. A reef trip, one big cave or ruin day and a few slow evenings on the beach beat a packed schedule, because transfers take time and the weather occasionally intervenes.

Mentioned in this guide

Hol Chan Marine ReserveDo

Hol Chan Marine Reserve

Belize's first marine reserve, a short boat ride south of San Pedro where the barrier reef is split by a natural channel. Snorkel over coral gardens busy with parrotfish, groupers, turtles and rays on a half-day sailing or boat trip with gear, guide and park fees handled.

Do

Great Blue Hole

A near-perfect circular sinkhole in Lighthouse Reef Atoll, more than 300 metres across and over 120 deep, ringed by turquoise shallows. A long day trip by boat from San Pedro adds snorkel stops at the atoll and Half Moon Caye.

Do

Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM Cave)

Belize's most dramatic cave trip: a jungle hike, river crossings, a swim into a Maya ceremonial cave and a scramble past pottery to the calcified skeleton known as the Crystal Maiden. Guided only, and a full day from the cayes.

Xunantunich Maya SiteDo

Xunantunich Maya Site

A hilltop Maya city on the Mopan River near the Guatemala border, reached by a free hand-cranked ferry. Climb El Castillo, some 40 metres high, for a view across the jungle, and see its carved stucco frieze.

Do

Belize Cave Tubing

Float on an inner tube through a river cave lit by headlamps, past stalactites and limestone chambers, after a short jungle hike. Easy, wet and fun, and offered as a day trip from Belize City and the cayes.

Stay

Victoria House Resort and Spa

A beachfront resort on Ambergris Caye's quieter south end, with Caribbean-facing rooms and villas, several pools, the La Luna Spa and a beachside restaurant. The island's classic splurge, a short ride from San Pedro town.

Stay

Ka’ana Resort

A luxury boutique resort and adventure base in the Cayo hills beside the Xunantunich temple, with rooms, suites and villas, a garden-to-table restaurant and a spa. The mainland counterpart to a beach stay, handy for caves and ruins.

Stay

San Pedro Holiday Hotel

A simple beachfront hotel in the heart of San Pedro, with direct beach access, balconies, air conditioning and an on-site restaurant and bar. The budget pick for walking to everything, with basic rooms and some music noise.