Belize
Belize packs a barrier reef and a jungle interior into a country the size of a small state.
Ambergris Caye and its town, San Pedro, sit beside the second-largest barrier reef in the world, where a short boat ride reaches the coral gardens of Hol Chan Marine Reserve, the nurse sharks and stingrays of Shark Ray Alley and, on a long day trip, the ink-blue circle of the Great Blue Hole. Inland, the Cayo hills hold the Maya hilltop city of Xunantunich, the flooded ceremonial cave of Actun Tunichil Muknal and the lazy cave-tubing rivers, while Belize City and the north add Lamanai's jungle temples and a tuk tuk tour of the old capital. This guide books those headline experiences properly, adds a sunset sail and a San Pedro food tour for the evenings, and matches them to five hotels, from a beachfront splurge and palm-thatched dive cabanas to a budget town hotel and two Cayo lodges, because in Belize where you sleep decides whether the reef or the rainforest is a short trip or a long one.
Hol Chan Marine Reserve
Belize's first marine reserve, a short boat ride south of San Pedro where the barrier reef is split by a natural channel. Snorkel over coral gardens busy with parrotfish, groupers, turtles and rays on a half-day sailing or boat trip with gear, guide and park fees handled.
Xunantunich Maya Site
A hilltop Maya city on the Mopan River near the Guatemala border, reached by a free hand-cranked ferry. Climb El Castillo, some 40 metres high, for a view across the jungle, and see its carved stucco frieze.
Lamanai Maya Ruins
A big jungle Maya city on the New River Lagoon, reached by a wildlife-rich boat ride from Orange Walk. Climb the High Temple, see the Mask Temple, and listen for howler monkeys on a full day trip from Belize City.
Great Blue Hole
A near-perfect circular sinkhole in Lighthouse Reef Atoll, more than 300 metres across and over 120 deep, ringed by turquoise shallows. A long day trip by boat from San Pedro adds snorkel stops at the atoll and Half Moon Caye.
Belize's first marine reserve, a short boat ride south of San Pedro where the barrier reef is split by a natural channel. Snorkel over coral gardens busy with parrotfish, groupers, turtles and rays on a half-day sailing or boat trip with gear, guide and park fees handled.
A shallow sandy bank inside Hol Chan where nurse sharks and southern stingrays gather around the boats. Slide in with a guide and snorkel among them in waist-to-chest-deep water for one of Belize's signature wildlife encounters.
A near-perfect circular sinkhole in Lighthouse Reef Atoll, more than 300 metres across and over 120 deep, ringed by turquoise shallows. A long day trip by boat from San Pedro adds snorkel stops at the atoll and Half Moon Caye.
Belize's most dramatic cave trip: a jungle hike, river crossings, a swim into a Maya ceremonial cave and a scramble past pottery to the calcified skeleton known as the Crystal Maiden. Guided only, and a full day from the cayes.
A hilltop Maya city on the Mopan River near the Guatemala border, reached by a free hand-cranked ferry. Climb El Castillo, some 40 metres high, for a view across the jungle, and see its carved stucco frieze.
Float on an inner tube through a river cave lit by headlamps, past stalactites and limestone chambers, after a short jungle hike. Easy, wet and fun, and offered as a day trip from Belize City and the cayes.
A big jungle Maya city on the New River Lagoon, reached by a wildlife-rich boat ride from Orange Walk. Climb the High Temple, see the Mask Temple, and listen for howler monkeys on a full day trip from Belize City.
An evening walking tour of San Pedro's local kitchens, tasting Belizean staples such as stew chicken, fry jacks, panades and fresh seafood, with the stories of Creole, Mestizo, Garifuna and Maya cooking behind each dish.
A small-group sunset sail on a 40-foot sailboat along Ambergris Caye's coast, with drinks, a breeze and the sky turning gold over the lagoon. The easiest romantic evening on the island, and a gentle way to see the water.
A guided tuk tuk loop through Belize City, taking in the Swing Bridge, the old colonial streets, the harbour and local landmarks. A practical, relaxed way to see the former capital, and a good fit for a transit day.
Hotels we would book ourselves, from splurges to good-value bases.
South Ambergris Caye
A beachfront resort on Ambergris Caye's quieter south end, with Caribbean-facing rooms and villas, several pools, the La Luna Spa and a beachside restaurant. The island's classic splurge, a short ride from San Pedro town.
Rates on Expedia →San Pedro, Coconut Drive
A palm-thatched, Polynesian-style beach resort on Coconut Drive, a short walk from San Pedro's centre. Beachfront, seaside and jungle cabanas, a lagoon pool, a beachside restaurant and an on-site dive shop make it a classic divers' base.
Rates on Expedia →San Pedro Town, Barrier Reef Drive
A simple beachfront hotel in the heart of San Pedro, with direct beach access, balconies, air conditioning and an on-site restaurant and bar. The budget pick for walking to everything, with basic rooms and some music noise.
Rates on Expedia →San Ignacio, Cayo District
A luxury boutique resort and adventure base in the Cayo hills beside the Xunantunich temple, with rooms, suites and villas, a garden-to-table restaurant and a spa. The mainland counterpart to a beach stay, handy for caves and ruins.
Rates on Expedia →Macal River, near San Ignacio
A long-established eco-lodge on the Macal River in the Maya Mountains foothills, with a rainforest reserve, adventure centre and spa, a short drive from San Ignacio. A nature-focused mainland stay for caves, canoeing and birding.
Rates on Expedia →What to book ahead, how to get around Ambergris Caye, how many days you need and where Hol Chan, the Great Blue Hole, the ATM cave, Xunantunich and cave tubing fit.
A neighbourhood guide to San Pedro, the quiet south end of Ambergris Caye and the Cayo hills, tied to five hotels at different price points.
