The Black Forest is as much a food region as a scenic one, and a good trip is planned around meals as well as views. The cooking is hearty, rooted in farms and forests, and shaped by the borders with France and Switzerland. Here is what to look for, where it fits into a day, and how to avoid the tourist traps.
Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte
The famous Black Forest cake layers chocolate sponge, whipped cream and sour cherries, and is traditionally flavoured with kirsch, the cherry brandy of the region. Every cafe claims a version, and the best ones in Triberg, Titisee and Freiburg are made on site rather than shipped in. Order it with coffee in the afternoon, and ask whether the kirsch is real if that matters to you. A good slice should taste of cherries first and cream second.
Ham, bacon and sausages
Schwarzwälder Schinken is a smoked, cured ham that is usually served thinly sliced with bread, pickles and butter for a Vesper, the traditional afternoon snack. In Freiburg, the classic street food is the Lange Rote, a long red sausage in a roll, sold from stalls around the Münster market. Look for regional farm shops and market stalls that sell ham and sausage directly.
Trout and river fish
The streams of the Black Forest are home to trout, which appear on menus as Forelle blau, poached in a vinegar court-bouillon, or Forelle Müllerin, pan-fried in butter. It is a lighter option after a day of walking, and mountain inns around Titisee, Schluchsee and Triberg often keep it on the menu. Ask whether the fish comes from a local farm.
Flammkuchen and Alsatian influence
On the western side, the cooking leans towards Alsace. Flammkuchen, a thin crisp base topped with cream, onions and bacon, is a staple in Freiburg wine bars and goes very well with a glass of Pinot. Strasbourg is nearby, and Alsatian flavours show in the choucroute and tarte flambée served in the region's cellars. In autumn, look for Zwiebelkuchen, onion tart, paired with Neuer Süsser or Federweisser, the cloudy new wine that is a seasonal treat.
Wine
The Black Forest's western slopes are wine country. The Kaiserstuhl, a volcanic massif north-west of Freiburg, is known for Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, while the Markgräflerland to the south specialises in Gutedel, a light white. The Freiburg tourism board describes the Kaiserstuhl as a Burgundy oasis. Visit family wineries in villages such as Ihringen or the town of Staufen, call ahead for tastings, and arrange a taxi or tour if you plan to drink. Further north, the Ortenau and Baden-Baden areas produce Riesling and Spätburgunder.
Kirsch, schnapps and cocktails
The region's fruit brandies, made from cherries, pears, plums and raspberries, are served in small glasses after a heavy meal. Distilleries and farm shops offer tastings, and a bottle of kirsch is a popular souvenir. Drink it slowly, and remember that it is strong. Non-drinkers can find excellent apple juice, elderflower cordial and local beers.
Where to eat
For atmosphere and value, choose a Gasthaus or Landgasthof away from the main tourist streets, where the menu is short and the staff are local. In Freiburg, the market stalls on the Münster square and the wine bars in the old town are reliable. Baden-Baden offers more formal dining, and Titisee and Triberg are best for cake and an afternoon stop rather than a main meal. Many restaurants close one day a week, usually Monday or Tuesday, and kitchens often stop serving by mid-evening, so check the hours.
Practical tips
Carry some cash for farm stalls, small cafes and mountain huts, since cards are not accepted everywhere. Tip by rounding up or adding five to ten percent. Reserve a table on weekends and in the Christmas season. For picnics, buy bread, cheese, ham and fruit at a Freiburg market in the morning and eat at a lake or summit.
A sample day of eating
Start with a market breakfast of bread, cheese and coffee on the Münster square in Freiburg. Take a Lange Rote sausage as a mid-morning snack, then lunch on trout or a ham plate at a village Gasthaus in the hills. Keep the afternoon for cherry cake by a lake, and end with Flammkuchen and a glass of Pinot in an old town wine bar. If you are staying in the hills, ask your host to recommend a farm that sells ham, cheese and schnapps directly.
