Chacaltaya Mountain

Chacaltaya is a mountain in the Cordillera Real, around thirty kilometers north of La Paz, and it is the easiest way for an ordinary traveler to stand above 5,000 meters. Its glacier, which once fed the world's highest ski lift, has melted away, but the rock summit survives and a rough road climbs almost to the top. From the car park a steady uphill walk of roughly half an hour leads to the summit, where on a clear day the whole range opens out: the pyramid of Huayna Potosí, the bulk of Illimani far to the south, the plain of the altiplano and, in good weather, a glint of Lake Titicaca. The air is thin and cold, the sky is deep blue, and the experience feels far more remote than the short drive suggests.

Most visitors go as part of a half-day tour from La Paz, often combined with Valle de la Luna on the same day, which makes for a good contrast between a lunar clay landscape and an icy high peak. The drive takes about an hour and a half on a winding road that climbs through El Alto and up onto the high plateau.

Tours leave in the morning, because cloud tends to build up in the afternoon and hide the views. A morning start also means you reach the summit when the light is sharpest and the air is calmest. Some operators run sunrise departures for photographers, which are colder but can be spectacular.

Altitude is the main issue. La Paz already sits at around 3,600 meters, and the summit of Chacaltaya is about 1,800 meters higher, so even fit visitors feel their heart pounding and their head light. Spend at least a day or two in La Paz before you go, drink water, avoid alcohol the night before and walk slowly. Most operators carry oxygen in the vehicle and a good guide will watch the group for headaches, nausea or confusion.

If you feel unwell, tell the guide and go back down; the car park itself is already well over 5,000 meters, and the view from there is still impressive. People with heart or lung conditions, and anyone who struggled with the altitude in the city, should talk to a doctor before booking.

Dress for winter whatever the season. Temperatures at the summit are often below freezing, the wind is strong and the sun is fierce, so bring a warm hat, gloves, a windproof jacket, sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen. Shoes with grip help on the loose gravel of the path. There is a small shelter at the car park, but do not count on facilities, and carry some cash for the entry fee that is usually collected on the way.

The ruined buildings of the old ski club are still visible below the summit and give a sense of how much the ice has retreated, a point many guides use to talk about climate change in the Andes.

The trip fits easily into a three-day La Paz plan: Chacaltaya and Valle de la Luna in one morning, the cable cars and the Witches Market in the afternoon. It also serves as a useful warm-up for anyone planning to climb Huayna Potosí, because it tests how your body reacts to high altitude without a night out in the cold. Roads and weather can change quickly in the Cordillera, and snow in winter or heavy rain in summer sometimes closes the final stretch, so ask your operator how far the vehicle can go and keep your plans flexible.