The Witches Market, Mercado de las Brujas, occupies a few steep streets in central La Paz around Calle Linares, between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz. Stalls sell dried herbs, seeds, folk remedies, soapstone figures, charms and, most famously, dried llama fetuses. These are buried in the foundations of new buildings and businesses as an offering to Pachamama, the Earth Mother, in a ceremony called the ch'alla, intended to bring luck and protect workers. Healers known as yatiris, often recognizable by dark hats and coca pouches, work in the area. Despite the name, the market is not about witchcraft in the Western sense, and it is a living part of Aymara belief. Mixed in are tourist shops selling alpaca sweaters and handicrafts.
Visiting respectfully makes the experience better. Treat the goods as religious items, not novelties, and ask before taking photos of vendors or stalls. Many stallholders will explain the use of an item if you show interest. Llama fetuses may be unsettling for some visitors, so be prepared. Buying a small amulet or a bag of herbs is a polite way to support the vendors.
What to see and buy: look for coca leaves, which are central to Andean life, as well as herbal remedies, miniature houses, small figurines called ekeko, and sweets used in offerings. The surrounding streets also have alpaca knitwear, leather goods, tour agencies and cafes. Prices are negotiable at tourist stalls, and a friendly bargaining style works well. Carry small bills.
How to fit it in: the market is a short walk from many central hotels, including those on Calle Sagarnaga, and fits neatly with a stroll to San Francisco Plaza and the cable cars. Visit in the morning or early afternoon when stalls are open and light is good, and keep an eye on bags in crowded streets. The streets are steep and the altitude is real, so walk slowly and rest when needed. Shopfronts and stall locations shift over time, so treat the cross-street names as a guide and ask locals if you cannot find the center of the market.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided stroll through stalls of herbs, amulets and offerings, with tourist shops and cafes on the streets around it.
Best time
Morning to early afternoon, when most stalls are open and the light is good.
How long
One to two hours with time for browsing and shopping.
Tips
Ask before photographing people or stalls, carry small bills, bargain politely and keep your bag in front of you.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travelers curious about Aymara beliefs and Andean daily life.
- Families
- Older children are usually fascinated, but the llama fetuses can upset some younger ones.
- Couples
- A fun hour of browsing for gifts and charms.
- Pair with
- Mi Teleférico, San Francisco Plaza and a stay on Calle Sagarnaga.
- Time needed
- An hour or two.
Good questions
What is the Witches Market?+
It is a group of streets in central La Paz selling herbs, charms and offerings for Aymara rituals. The name comes from the traditional healers and ritual items, not Western witchcraft.
Why are llama fetuses sold there?+
They are buried under new buildings as an offering to Pachamama for protection and luck. This is part of a long-standing Andean ceremony.
Can I take photos?+
Ask permission first, and expect to be refused or asked for a small payment in some cases. Respect the vendors.
Is it free?+
Yes, it is a public street market and entry is free. You pay for anything you buy.
Is it safe?+
It is busy and generally fine in daylight, but watch your belongings as in any crowded market.
