The British Virgin Islands are small, steep and surrounded by calm water, and almost everything worth doing involves a boat. More than fifty islands and cays sit around the Sir Francis Drake Channel, but a first trip comes down to a handful of places: Tortola, where most people land, Virgin Gorda for The Baths, Jost Van Dyke for the beach bars, Norman Island for the caves, and, if time allows, Anegada. High season is starting now and runs through spring, so the weather is dry, the breeze is steady and the best trips fill up early.
What to book ahead
Book the water days first. A shared catamaran or sailing day is the best way to see the islands without chartering a boat, and the options in this guide include a shared catamaran to The Baths, a Soggy Dollar and Sandy Spit sail from Tortola, a Norman Island caves and snorkel sail, and a Thursday day sail from Road Town. Pick the ones that match your interests, and note that the Road Town day sail runs on a single day of the week, so plan around it. If you want to dive the RMS Rhone, reserve a two-tank trip with a dive shop a day or two ahead. The Baths and the Rhone sit in national parks, so expect small park fees and check whether your tour includes them. Most other sights, including beaches, are free.
How to get around
You arrive by air at Beef Island, next to Tortola, or by ferry from the US Virgin Islands. Inside the territory, taxis are the usual way to cross Tortola, and fares are fixed by destination, so ask before you set off. Public ferries link Road Town and West End with Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke and Anegada. If you rent a car, remember that traffic drives on the left and that the roads are steep, narrow and twisty. The US dollar is the currency, so there is no exchange to arrange, and carry some cash for taxis and small beach stands.
How many days
Three days gives you a taste: one for a boat day to The Baths or Jost Van Dyke, one for Norman Island and snorkeling, and one on land at Sage Mountain and Cane Garden Bay. Five days is the sweet spot, adding a second boat day, a Rhone dive or a night on Virgin Gorda. A week allows an overnight on Anegada, a full day sail and slack days on the beach. If you only have one day, join the single long trip from St Thomas, which needs a valid passport and some cash for customs fees.
Fitting the headline sights together
Group by area. On Tortola, pair Sage Mountain, the highest point in the BVI, with Cane Garden Bay for a swim and lunch, and use Road Town for the botanic gardens and the harbor. For Virgin Gorda, go early to The Baths, walk the trail to Devil's Bay and swim. For Jost Van Dyke, plan a boat trip to White Bay and the Soggy Dollar Bar, then rest the next day. For Norman Island, snorkel the Caves and The Indians in calm weather, and add a drink at Pirates Bight. Anegada is a different kind of day, flat and quiet, and is best with a night on the island and a lobster dinner.
Practical tips
Reef-safe sunscreen, a rash vest, water shoes and a dry bag will do more for your trip than any gadget. Seas can be rougher on some days, so travelers prone to seasickness should take tablets before sailing. Ask hotels and tour operators about weather changes, because itineraries can shift for safety. Sundays are quiet in Road Town. Finally, book your accommodation by the kind of trip you want: a resort on Virgin Gorda for a beach holiday, a marina resort at Nanny Cay for family comfort, or a hotel in Road Town for ferries and easy logistics. Our where-to-stay guide goes through the five places we picked.
