Duke of Gordon Hotel

Kingussie sits in the middle of Badenoch, the broad upper valley of the Spey, and the Duke of Gordon Hotel is one of its landmark buildings. It is a Victorian hotel with a solid stone exterior, a traditional bar and restaurant and the old-fashioned hospitality of a Highland coaching house. The town is smaller and quieter than Aviemore, but it has bakeries, shops, a golf course and easy access to places that most visitors miss: Ruthven Barracks, the Insh Marshes nature reserve, Loch Insh watersports and the Highland Folk Museum at Newtonmore are all within a short drive. As a base it suits history fans, birdwatchers and travellers who want to explore the southern half of the national park, and its position on the railway line gives it good public transport links.

Kingussie has a character of its own. Its wide main street, grey stone buildings and small independent shops give it the look of a typical Highland market town, and it has a surprising number of good cafes and restaurants for its size. The railway station provides services to Inverness and Edinburgh, which makes the town useful for car-free travellers, and the nearby Cairngorms are reachable by bus or taxi. For walkers, paths lead to the Insh Marshes and to the surrounding hills, and cyclists can follow quiet roads along the valley.

The hotel offers traditional comfort. Expect a restaurant and bar serving Scottish food, rooms of varying size and style, and staff who are used to guests heading out for long days outdoors. Ask for a room away from the street if you are sensitive to noise, and check parking arrangements. In winter, the hotel's fires and quiet corners are a welcome retreat from cold and snow.

Badenoch rewards a slower approach. Ruthven Barracks and the marshes are minutes away, Newtonmore's Highland Folk Museum shows how people lived in earlier centuries, and the Dalwhinnie distillery is a half-hour drive south. On the northern side, Aviemore's attractions are about twenty minutes away, so you can choose between quiet days and busy ones. The Insh Marshes are especially good for birds in spring and winter, with hides and trails run by the RSPB.

Book ahead in summer and around events, and consider a midweek stay to find better rates. The Duke of Gordon suits history lovers, walkers, couples and anyone who likes to explore a less crowded part of the Cairngorms, with the option of dipping into Aviemore for the big-name attractions when the mood takes you.

When booking, mention any special occasions or dietary needs, as smaller hotels often respond warmly to requests, and ask about packed breakfasts for early starts on the hill or the marshes.