The Backs

The Backs is the name for the green swathe of lawns, gardens and meadows that runs along the River Cam behind a string of grand colleges: King's, Clare, Trinity Hall, Trinity and St John's. It is the single most beautiful scene in Cambridge and it is free to enjoy. Stone bridges cross the water at intervals, from the elegant Clare Bridge, the oldest surviving bridge in the city, to the Kitchen Bridge by St John's and the wooden Mathematical Bridge at Queens'. Weeping willows trail in the river, cows and sheep sometimes graze the meadows and the great buildings stand behind the trees, with the soaring chapel of King's the unmistakable centrepiece. The name comes from the way the colleges turn their backs to the river, with their grand fronts facing the streets of the old town. In spring the lawns fill with crocuses and daffodils, in summer picnickers and punts crowd the scene, and in autumn the leaves turn gold above the water.

You can see the Backs in several ways. The most popular is from the river on a punt, which gives you the view the architects intended and takes you under the bridges. On foot, the best views come from Garret Hostel Bridge, from the King's College lawn when it is open and from the Silver Street area, while Queen's Road runs along the back of the meadows for a calm, flat walk.

Cyclists can follow the path along Queen's Road and then loop back through the centre. No tickets are needed to walk the public paths and bridges, although individual college gardens and the Fellows' Garden at some colleges may be closed or charge for entry.

Think about timing. Mornings are quiet and the light on the stone is soft. Late afternoon brings warm colours and long shadows, while mid-summer can be crowded with punts and picnickers. In spring, the crocuses at the start of the season are a local ritual, and in autumn the colours make it a favourite for photographers. After rain the paths can be muddy, so wear sturdy shoes. Respect any signs asking you to keep off the grass, because the lawns are working college property and some are closed during exam periods or repairs.

Because it is free and flexible, the Backs fits anywhere in a day. Combine a morning guided walk through the colleges with a river view, or finish an afternoon with a punt. Nearby, the cafes of King's Parade, the Market Square and Mill Lane make good places to rest, and the Mill Pond area near Silver Street is a classic spot to watch punts go by. The walk also links King's College Chapel, St John's College and Trinity College, so it can serve as the thread for a self-guided day.

For couples it is the most romantic short walk in the city, and for families it offers space for children to run. Photographers will want to bring a wide lens for the King's College view, and a longer lens for details of the bridges. Whatever you carry, leave time simply to sit on a bench or the grass where permitted and watch the river traffic drift by.