Llandaff Cathedral

Llandaff Cathedral stands in the leafy village of Llandaff, about two miles northwest of the city centre, on a site that has been Christian for well over a thousand years. It is the mother church of the Diocese of Llandaff, and the present building dates from 1107, when the Normans began a larger church to replace an earlier Welsh one. After a long period of decline in the centuries after the Reformation, the cathedral was restored in the nineteenth century, and then it was badly damaged by bombing in the Second World War, when the roof was destroyed. The architect George Pace oversaw a bold post-war restoration, and the result is one of the most striking sacred spaces in Britain, where medieval stonework meets modern design. The most famous feature is Jacob Epstein's aluminium figure Christ in Majesty, about sixteen feet tall, which hangs on a concrete arch between the nave and the choir. Entry is free and visitors are welcome to attend services.

Look for the highlights as you walk in. The Epstein figure dominates the nave, suspended on its slender parabolic arch designed by Pace, and its raw modern look against the old stone always draws comment. In the St Illtyd Chapel hangs The Seed of David, a triptych by the Pre-Raphaelite painter Dante Gabriel Rossetti, moved there after the restoration, and the Welsh Regiment Memorial Chapel, also designed by Pace, honours soldiers of the regiment.

The medieval fabric survives in parts of the nave and the west front, and the building mixes styles from the twelfth century to the twentieth in a way that rewards slow looking.

Opening hours are generous. The cathedral is usually open Monday to Saturday from eight until half past five and on Sundays from eight until four, but services and events can restrict access to parts of the building, so check the cathedral website for the day you plan to go. Evensong is a particular pleasure for music lovers, and the choir sings regularly in term time.

Entry is free, though donations are welcome, and visitors should dress respectfully and keep voices low during services. The building has steps in places, so check access if you use a wheelchair, and allow forty-five minutes to an hour to see the main features.

Plan the trip as a quiet half-day beyond the centre. Llandaff is reached by bus from the city centre, by train to Llandaff station, or on a pleasant walk along the river through Pontcanna and Llandaff Fields, which takes about forty minutes from the castle. The village green has a few pubs, cafes and the ruins of the medieval bishop's palace, and it feels far from the bustle of the city.

Combine the cathedral with a stroll through the fields and a look at the nearby village streets. Bring layers, because the cathedral can be cool, even in summer.

Take your time with the details, because the cathedral rewards close looking. The west front carries medieval carving, the nave has a striking modern roofline, and the stained glass and memorials tell stories of the city and the region. A small shop and information desk can provide a leaflet that guides you around the main points, and volunteers are often on hand to answer questions. If you enjoy choral music, check the service list for evensong, which gives the building its full voice, and remember that photography may be restricted during services.