The Pierhead

The Pierhead is the little red-brick Gothic building that has become the postcard image of Cardiff Bay. It is a Grade I listed landmark, built in the late nineteenth century as the headquarters of the Bute Docks Company, which later became the Cardiff Railway Company, and it was once the commercial heart of a port that shipped Welsh coal around the world. Construction took nearly three years and its terracotta details, clock tower and ornate roofline are typical of the grand Victorian Gothic style that the Butes and their architects favoured. Today it stands beside the modern Senedd and is used as a visitor space, with a light-touch exhibition that tells the story of the building, the docks and the National Assembly, and with events and conferences that support the work of the Senedd. Entry is generally free, the interior is compact and the visit can be done in less than an hour, which makes it an ideal short stop on a waterfront walk.

Use the Pierhead as a hinge between the old and new Bay. Stand outside and look at the red terracotta and the clock tower, then turn to see the sweeping timber canopy of the Senedd and the bronze Wales Millennium Centre behind it. The contrast explains the regeneration of the area better than any signpost: coal and shipping built the Victorian city, the docks closed, and the waterfront was reinvented as a place for culture and government.

Inside, a modest exhibition and the original decorative details give a sense of how the building was used by the dock company, and staff are usually happy to answer questions about its history.

Check the hours before you go. The Pierhead follows a similar pattern to the Senedd, opening Monday to Friday from nine until half past four and on Saturdays and bank holidays from half past ten until half past four, with last entry at four, and it may open earlier or later on days when the Senedd has business. There are lifts and seating in the public areas, so access is straightforward, and the visit takes thirty to forty-five minutes.

Because the building is small it can feel busy when a school group arrives, so a weekday morning can be quieter than late afternoon. Photographers should come in the late afternoon in winter, when low sun lights the brick and the water in front of the building makes a mirror on calm days.

Combine the Pierhead with the rest of the Bay. A natural route begins at Mermaid Quay for coffee, passes the Wales Millennium Centre and the Senedd, and ends at the Pierhead before you take a boat trip or walk out to the Barrage. If you only have a short time in the Bay, a quick look at the exterior and a visit inside gives a satisfying slice of Cardiff's history and its present at once.

The Baycar 6 bus stops nearby, the train to Cardiff Bay station is a short walk away, and walking from the city centre takes about half an hour. Dress for wind, because the waterfront is open, and bring a camera for the best-known view in the Bay.

There is a little more to see than the first glance suggests. Look for the carved details on the exterior, the clock face that has watched over the dock for well over a century and the contrast between the heavy Victorian brickwork and the airy glass of the neighbouring Senedd.

Visitors interested in industrial history can ask staff about the coal trade that built the building, and photographers will find that the best angle for the facade is from the water side in the afternoon. Children usually enjoy the short visit as a break between running around the waterfront and a snack.