Two Harbors and the Isthmus

Two Harbors is Catalina's other town, and it feels like a different island. Located where the land narrows to a thin isthmus, it overlooks two sheltered bays, Isthmus Cove on the northwest side and Cat Harbor on the southeast. A few dozen buildings cluster around a small waterfront with a general store, a bar and restaurant, a dive and recreation center and a historic lodge. There are no big hotels, no boutique rows, and very few people, which is exactly the point. The village is a base for snorkeling, kayaking, hiking, paddleboarding and boat days, and it is where many of the island's wildest trails begin. The jet-ski adventure from the mainland, a guided ride across the channel to the village, offers a thrilling way to arrive.

Life at Two Harbors revolves around the water. Snorkeling in Isthmus Cove and nearby coves reveals garibaldi, kelp bass and sometimes sea lions; kayaks and paddleboards can be rented from the recreation center; and shore dives are available for certified divers. The village's beach bar, long known for its buffalo milk cocktail and bison burgers, is a classic hangout where boaters, hikers and campers mingle.

Evenings bring a hush, with the lights of anchored sailboats and a huge sky full of stars, since there is little light pollution. Many visitors stay in the lodge or camp, but day-trippers can also arrive by ferry or seasonal shuttle.

Getting to Two Harbors takes planning. The ferry runs from the mainland ports on a limited schedule, and a shuttle bus connects Avalon with Two Harbors across the island's interior on selected days. The jet-ski route is a guided adventure for confident riders. Bring cash for small purchases, because services are limited, and pack essentials such as sunscreen, water and snacks.

The village has a small store and basic supplies, but everything is brought by boat, so options are more limited and prices higher than on the mainland. Check the weather, because fog and wind can affect boat schedules.Hiking is the other draw.

Trails lead from the village up to ridgelines with views of both sides of the island, down to isolated beaches, and along sections of the Trans-Catalina Trail. A short walk takes you to Banning House Lodge on the bluff, historic buildings, and viewpoints for sunset. Bison sometimes graze near the edge of town, and foxes are bold campers' companions.

If you have time, combine Two Harbors with an Avalon stay for a full island experience, or make it your quiet base for a few days. The contrast between the lively waterfront of Avalon and the peaceful isthmus is one of Catalina's great pleasures, and a night here makes the island feel much bigger.

Think of Two Harbors as a place to slow down rather than a place to tick boxes. Mornings can start with coffee on the dock and a swim, afternoons with a kayak or a walk to the viewpoint, and evenings with dinner and a campfire under the stars. Kids usually love the freedom, the animals and the lack of traffic.

Remember that supplies are limited, that cell coverage can be patchy, and that the pace is slower than on the mainland. Bring a book, cash for small purchases and patience if a ferry is delayed. In return you get one of the least spoiled coastal places in Southern California.