North-South Lake

North-South Lake sits on a plateau above the Hudson Valley, a pair of connected lakes ringed by forest and bluffs that drop away toward the river. The day-use area has a swimming beach, picnic grounds, rowboat and kayak rentals in season and a campground that is one of the most popular in the state system. Just beyond it, trails lead to the cliff-edge views that drew nineteenth-century travelers to the Catskill Mountain House, the grand hotel that stood here for generations. For anyone who wants to feel what the Catskills offered the first tourists in America, this is the place, and it can be enjoyed with a swimsuit, a sandwich and a walk rather than a long hike.

The lakes are the family-friendly side of the visit. The beach has a defined swimming area and shallow entry, and the surrounding lawns make a comfortable day of picnicking, with shade and grills available in the day-use zone. Paddlers can launch their own boats or rent them in season, and the water is calm in the morning. Check the state site for hours, the vehicle fee in season and any restrictions on alcohol, pets or boats, because the area is managed as a campground and day-use park with its own rules.

The views are the other half. Marked trails lead from the lakes to a series of ledges along the Escarpment Trail, among them Artist Point and Sunset Rock, where the land falls hundreds of feet to the Hudson Valley and on a clear day you can see for many miles toward the Berkshires and the Taconic ridge. The route to the first lookouts is short enough for moderately fit families, while the full ridge walks, including the link toward the old hotel site, are more demanding and best treated as half-day hikes.

The famous Catskill Mountain House itself is gone, but the platform of the site and the surrounding cliffs still give a sense of why painters and travelers came.

Season shapes the experience. Late spring and early summer bring wildflowers and cool mornings, July and August are for swimming and camping, and October is the time to see the color spread across the valley below. Winter is quiet and snowy, and some roads and facilities close, so it is a time for snowshoers and experienced cold-weather hikers. The campground fills early for summer weekends, so reserve well ahead if you plan to sleep here.

It is easy to combine this stop with Kaaterskill Falls, which is a short drive away, and with the villages of Haines Falls, Tannersville and Hunter. Bring your own food or plan a stop in town, as services at the park are limited. Dogs are generally permitted in designated areas on leash but not on the beach, so confirm the current rules on the state page before you go.

For a simple itinerary, arrive in the morning, walk to a lookout while the air is clear, and return to the beach for lunch and a swim when the sun is high. If you are camping, the evening is the best part of the day: the lakes go still, the day visitors leave and the escarpment turns pink at sunset.

Rangers and volunteer stewards often work the busy trails in summer, and their advice on conditions is worth a minute of your time. Pack insect repellent for the woods, because the lakeside is damp, and bring a light layer even in July since the plateau is noticeably cooler than the valley.