Chamonix is one of the great ski valleys of the Alps, known less for pampered groomers than for scale, height and views. The valley is divided into several separate areas rather than one linked circuit. Les Grands Montets above Argentière is the one for steep terrain and advanced skiers. Brévent-Flégère, on the sunny side of the valley, has broad runs and big Mont Blanc panoramas that suit intermediates. Les Houches at the lower end is gentler and wooded, good for families and in bad weather, and Vallorcine and Balme at the other end are quieter with fewer visitors. In the high mountains, the Vallée Blanche descent from the Aiguille du Midi is a famous off-piste route that you must do with a qualified guide. The Mont-Blanc bus links all the areas, so you can mix and match.
The season is the first thing to understand. For winter 2026-2027 the published opening dates are 28 November for Les Grands Montets and Flégère, and 12 December for the Brévent, Les Houches and Balme, with Les Grands Montets scheduled to run to 2 May 2027. The Aiguille du Midi reopens on 19 December. In practice, the season usually starts in mid-December and depends on snowfall, so late-November skiing is a bonus, not a promise. Right now, early in November, the lifts are all closed and the valley is between seasons.
Choose the area to fit the group. Les Grands Montets rewards confident skiers with long vertical drops and challenging off-piste, and a new gondola from Argentière to Lognan is due to open in stages from December 2026. Flégère and the Brévent suit confident intermediates, and Les Houches is the easy one.
Beginners can start with lessons on the gentle slopes before moving up. A multi-day Mont-Blanc Unlimited pass covers the whole valley and the bus, but buy only after the snow report looks good. Off-piste skiing and the Vallée Blanche should be done with a mountain guide, because crevasses and avalanche risk are real.
If you are visiting from Geneva, a ski day trip is a useful option with transport arranged, and the booking page shows the one that includes an optional Aiguille du Midi ride. For a week's holiday, stay in or near Chamonix centre to be near the bus stops, or in Les Praz for the Flégère gondola. Book ski hire and lessons early for the Christmas and February holidays, bring layers, sunscreen and goggles, and always check the avalanche bulletin before leaving the marked pistes.
What to expect
The experience
Alpine skiing across several separate areas, Les Grands Montets, Brévent-Flégère, Les Houches and Vallorcine, linked by the valley bus.
Best time
January to March for the most reliable snow; the season usually starts in mid-December.
How long
A full day per area, or a week-long holiday across several.
Tips
Check snow and lift status, book hire and lessons early, use a guide off-piste and buy multi-day passes only once the snow is good.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Confident skiers and boarders who want big mountains, long runs and Mont Blanc views.
- Families
- Les Houches and the lower slopes suit families and beginners better than the high areas.
- Couples
- Flégère and the Brévent offer sunny runs and terrace lunches with Mont Blanc views.
- Pair with
- The Aiguille du Midi in winter, a dog sled ride or snowshoeing for a rest day.
- Time needed
- A week for a proper holiday; a day trip is possible from Geneva.
Good questions
When does the Chamonix ski season start?+
It usually starts in mid-December. For 2026-2027 the first scheduled openings are 28 November for Les Grands Montets and Flégère, and 12 December for the Brévent, snow permitting.
Is there skiing in Chamonix in early November?+
No. All the lifts are closed between seasons and the valley is quiet. The first scheduled opening is on 28 November 2026.
Which Chamonix ski area is best for beginners?+
Les Houches and the gentler slopes at Flégère are the easiest. Les Grands Montets is the one for advanced skiers.
Do I need a guide for the Vallée Blanche?+
Yes. The route from the Aiguille du Midi crosses glaciers with crevasses, and should only be skied with a qualified mountain guide.
Can I do a ski day trip from Geneva?+
Yes, there are ski day trips from Geneva with transport included. They suit people who want one day on the slopes without moving hotels.
