Pondicherry French Quarter Heritage Walk

Pondicherry, now also called Puducherry, was a French colony from the late seventeenth century until the middle of the twentieth, and it is unlike any other town in Tamil Nadu. The old French Quarter, called White Town, is laid out on a neat grid between the sea and a canal, with tree-lined streets, colonial villas painted in cream and mustard yellow, shuttered windows and bright bougainvillea. Signs and street names are bilingual, and the uniform of the local police still includes the red kepi, which gives the town a touch of Provence on the Bay of Bengal. A heritage walk is the best way to see it. Guides lead you along Goubert Salai, the seafront promenade, past the French War Memorial, the old lighthouse and the statue of Gandhi, then into the quiet streets of White Town, where you can see the Immaculate Conception Cathedral, the Church of Our Lady of Angels and the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. The Tamil Quarter, with its own grid of houses and temples, lies across the canal, and the contrast between the two halves shows how colonial planning created separate worlds within one town.

Pondicherry is also a food town. Boulangeries, creperies and small bistros sit beside South Indian restaurants and street stalls, and visitors can order a baguette, a croissant, a Tamil thali or a Creole-style fish curry in the same afternoon. French cuisine has left its mark on local cooking, and many places serve a blend of influences.

The town is also known for its relaxed pace, yoga studios, boutique shops and art galleries, which makes it a popular spot for weekend breaks. Alcohol is generally cheaper here than in Tamil Nadu because of different local taxes, which is part of the town's holiday reputation.

The Sri Aurobindo Ashram, founded by the philosopher and nationalist Sri Aurobindo and his spiritual collaborator known as the Mother, is a quiet and respectful place, and visitors are welcome in certain areas in silence. The ashram's samadhi, or memorial shrine, in a courtyard of frangipani trees is a place of pilgrimage for followers from many countries. Nearby is the Manakula Vinayagar Temple, whose temple elephant blesses visitors, and the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, a Gothic church with stained glass that draws a steady stream of visitors.

Pondicherry is about 150 kilometres south of Chennai, a drive of three to four hours along the East Coast Road. A day trip is possible but long, so many travellers choose to stay overnight in a heritage guesthouse in White Town, or to combine Pondicherry with Mahabalipuram on a two-day trip. Tours linked here include private guides who cover the walking route, and some combine the town with Auroville. The best season is November to February, when temperatures are lower, although it is also the monsoon period early on, so check the forecast.

Wear comfortable walking shoes, a hat and sunscreen, and carry water. Rent a bicycle for a leisurely ride around White Town, or hire an auto rickshaw for the longer distances. Evening is a lovely time to walk the promenade, when the sea breeze is cool and families gather along the rocks. If you are shopping, look for handmade paper, incense, perfumes, ceramics and clothing, much of which is produced by local workshops associated with the ashram and Auroville. Pondicherry rewards a slow visit, so build in time to wander without an agenda.