Chennai is the capital of Tamil Nadu and the gateway to the south of India, a city of more than ten million people on the Bay of Bengal. It was known as Madras until 1996, and both names still turn up in daily life, in the Madras High Court, the Madras Music Academy and the filter coffee that locals call Madras kaapi. Visitors often treat it as a transit point on the way to Kerala or Pondicherry, which is a pity, because Chennai has a deep cultural life, excellent food and some of the best day trips in the south.
What to see first
Start in Mylapore, the old Tamil quarter, where Kapaleeshwarar Temple rises over a sacred tank and the surrounding streets are full of flower sellers, brass shops and coffee stalls. San Thome Basilica, built over the traditional tomb of St Thomas the Apostle, is a short ride away, and Marina Beach lies just beyond. Then add Fort St George and the Government Museum in Egmore, whose Bronze Gallery is among the finest in India. Together these give a clear picture of Chennai as a city of temples, trade and empire.
How many days
Two full days cover the main sights in the city. Three days give room for a food walk, a dance experience or a cooking class, and four to five days let you add day trips to Mahabalipuram, Kanchipuram or Pondicherry. If you only have one day, combine Mylapore, Fort St George and the Government Museum, finish with sunset at Marina Beach and plan the rest for your next trip.
Getting around
Chennai is a spread-out city with heavy traffic, and distances look short on a map but take time on the road. Ride apps, taxis and auto rickshaws are the easiest options, and a car with a driver for a day is good value for temple circuits and day trips. Chennai Metro now links the airport with parts of the city and is useful for avoiding rush hour on some routes. Agree auto rickshaw fares before you start or insist on the meter, and allow plenty of time between appointments.
Climate and timing
Chennai is hot and humid for much of the year. The cooler months from November to February are the most comfortable for sightseeing, while April to June can be punishing in the middle of the day. The north-east monsoon brings heavy rain between October and December, and flooding or cyclone warnings occasionally disrupt travel. In December and January the Margazhi music and dance season fills the city with concerts, which is a highlight if you enjoy classical arts.
Etiquette and dress
Chennai is a conservative city by international standards. Dress modestly in temples and churches, covering shoulders and knees, and be ready to remove your shoes at every temple, which means slip-on footwear is a good idea. Photography rules vary, so follow signs and ask before photographing people. Eat and hand things with your right hand, and use bottled or filtered water. Tamil is the main language, but English is widely understood in hotels, restaurants and shops.
Food
South Indian food is a major reason to visit. Start the day with idli, dosa, vada and pongal, order a banana leaf meal at lunchtime and finish with filter coffee. Vegetarian restaurants are everywhere, and many dishes are naturally vegan or gluten free, while non-vegetarian Chettinad and Muslim-style dishes offer a spicier alternative. Street food is excellent, but choose busy stalls and pace yourself.
Where to stay
Guindy has the large luxury hotels and is close to the airport, while Anna Salai puts you in the middle of the city, and Adyar offers the quietest seafront setting. For a beach-resort feel, base yourself at Mahabalipuram or on the East Coast Road for a night or two. Read our guide to where to stay for a fuller breakdown of the options.
Money and practicalities
Carry small notes for tips, shoe stands and auto rickshaws, and use cards or digital payments in hotels and larger shops. ATMs are common. Many temples close in the middle of the day, so plan visits for early morning or late afternoon. Museums often close on one day a week, so confirm before you go. Keep valuables out of sight in crowded places, and be cautious with unsolicited offers of tours or shopping help near major sights.
The honest advice
Do not try to see everything. Chennai rewards slow, curious travel: a long breakfast in Mylapore, an evening on the beach, a conversation with a guide who loves the city. Leave room for the unplanned, such as a chance encounter with a temple procession or a street corner where someone is making fresh murukku. The city may not be as photogenic as Jaipur or as relaxed as Pondicherry, but it is real, warm and full of stories, and it repays the traveller who gives it time.