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Chennai & Mahabalipuram guide

Chennai in Three Days

A practical three-day Chennai itinerary covering Mylapore, colonial Madras, food walks and a day trip to Mahabalipuram.

Three days is enough to see the heart of Chennai and add one big day trip. This itinerary is built around the city's rhythms: early starts for temples and museums, quiet middays out of the heat and relaxed evenings by the sea. It assumes you have a car with a driver or use ride apps, and it groups sights by neighbourhood to cut down on traffic time. Swap days to suit the weather and opening days, since museums often close on one day a week.

Day one: Mylapore and the sea

Start early in Mylapore at Kapaleeshwarar Temple, when the light is soft and the courtyards are busy with morning prayers. Join a walking tour of the Mada streets if you want the stories behind the sculptures, and stop for idli, vada and filter coffee at a traditional eatery. Continue to San Thome Basilica, built over the traditional tomb of St Thomas, and take time in the museum. Break for lunch and rest during the hottest hours. In the late afternoon, walk along Marina Beach, try sundal from a stall and watch the sky turn orange over the Bay of Bengal.

Day two: colonial Madras and the bazaars

Begin at Fort St George in the morning, when the museum is cooler and quieter. Walk the ramparts, visit St Mary's Church and read the memorials, then continue to the Government Museum in Egmore for the Bronze Gallery and the National Art Gallery. After lunch, head to George Town for a heritage and bazaar walk, passing the Madras High Court, Flower Bazaar and old trading houses. Finish with a Sowcarpet food tasting tour, where chaat, kachori and sweets make a lively dinner.

Day three: Mahabalipuram

Leave early for the coast, about one and a half to two hours south. Visit the Shore Temple and Arjuna's Penance, then walk to the Five Rathas to see the monolithic temples. Have a seafood lunch in town, browse the stone-carving workshops and, if you have energy, stop at DakshinaChitra or the Madras Crocodile Bank on the way back. Return to Chennai in the evening for a late dinner, or stay overnight in a beach resort to enjoy the sunset.

If you have a fourth day

Add Kanchipuram for temples and silk weaving, or a long day to Pondicherry and Auroville. If you prefer a slower pace, take a cooking class in the morning, rest at the hotel during midday and attend a Bharatanatyam experience in the afternoon. During the Margazhi season in December and January, book a concert in the evening.

Pacing and heat

Chennai is hot, and the best strategy is to begin early, rest at midday and resume late afternoon. Carry water, wear a hat and light cotton clothing and apply sunscreen. Temples close in the middle of the day, so this schedule suits them well. Wear slip-on shoes to ease the many shoe removals, and carry a small bag for socks if the ground is hot.

Transport tips

Use a car with a driver for day three and consider one for days one and two as well, since distances are large. Ride apps work well within the city, and auto rickshaws are good for short hops if you agree the fare. Avoid rush hours, usually 8 to 10 in the morning and 5 to 8 in the evening, when even short trips can take an hour.

Food stops

Plan breakfast in Mylapore, lunch near Egmore and dinner in Sowcarpet or at a restaurant near your hotel. Try a banana leaf meal at lunchtime, filter coffee between meals and sweets after dinner. Vegetarian restaurants are plentiful and reliable, and your hotel can recommend places for Chettinad dishes if you prefer spice and meat.

Booking ahead

Reserve guides and tours for the busiest sights, particularly in the cooler season, and book restaurants for dinner on weekends. If you want to see Kalakshetra or the Matrimandir in Auroville, check access rules in advance, since these can require arrangements. Keep a flexible day in case of rain or closures, and be ready to swap the order of sights.

The honest advice

This plan is full but doable. If you feel tired, drop one stop rather than rushing, since the best moments in Chennai are often the unplanned ones. A long conversation with a temple priest, a street food vendor or a taxi driver can be as memorable as any monument.

Mentioned in this guide

Do

Kapaleeshwarar Temple, Mylapore

The great Shiva temple of Mylapore, a riot of painted gods on a soaring gopuram beside a sacred tank, and the best place in Chennai to see Tamil devotion at work. A walking tour of the surrounding neighbourhood explains the rituals, the festivals and the streets around it.

Do

Fort St George and the Fort Museum

The fortress where British Madras began in 1644, still the seat of Tamil Nadu's government, with a museum of colonial relics, the oldest Anglican church in India and a flagstaff that towers above the ramparts. A guided city tour gets you past the checkpoints and into the stories.

Do

Government Museum, Egmore

One of India's oldest museums, with a world-class gallery of Chola bronzes, an Indo-Saracenic campus, archaeology, natural history and a children's museum. A guided museum walk or half-day tour makes sense of the collection.

Do

George Town Heritage and Bazaar Walk

The oldest commercial quarter of Chennai, a dense grid of bazaars, trading houses, temples, churches and colonial courts north of the fort. A guided heritage walk threads through the wholesale lanes and explains who built what, and why.

Do

Mahabalipuram Shore Temple and Arjuna's Penance

A granite temple of the Pallava kings standing on the sand beside the Bay of Bengal, part of the UNESCO-listed monuments of Mahabalipuram. A guided day trip from Chennai adds the great rock relief of Arjuna's Penance and the town's stone-carving streets.

Stay

Hyatt Regency Chennai

A well-run, central five-star hotel on Anna Salai in Teynampet, with a pool, several restaurants and quick access to the city's main roads. A dependable upscale base for sightseeing and business.

Stay

The Park Chennai

A design-forward hotel on Anna Salai, built on the site of a famous film studio, with stylish interiors, a pool, a spa, lively bars and restaurants and a central location. The city's trendiest address.

Stay

Courtyard by Marriott Chennai

A well-priced, modern hotel on Anna Salai in central Chennai, with comfortable rooms, a pool, a fitness centre and an all-day restaurant. A practical mid-range base close to the city's main roads and sights.