Río Lagartos lies on the north coast of the Yucatán, roughly an hour and a half by road from Valladolid, and it is the best-known wildlife stop in the east of the state. The estuary and its mangroves are part of a protected coastal reserve, and the shallow, salty lagoons are feeding grounds for American flamingos, along with pelicans, herons, egrets, ibis and other waders. A guide steers a small boat along the channels, slows down where the birds are feeding and points out the crocodiles that gave the town its name, which means River of Lizards. Many visitors also stop at the pink salt lakes of Las Coloradas nearby, where the water takes on a striking pink-orange colour from the algae and tiny organisms that thrive in the brine. The tour described by this link is a guided boat tour that, going by its title, is paired with a visit to the Maya city of Ek Balam on the way, which makes for a very full day. It suits anyone who has had enough of stone and wants birds, open water and big skies.
The experience is quiet and slow, and that is its charm. You glide through narrow mangrove channels before the water opens into wide, shallow lagoons, and then the guide cuts the engine so you can watch the flamingos feeding in the distance. Wild birds move on their own schedule, so the number you see changes with the season, the tide and the weather.
Treat the flamingos as a bonus and enjoy the whole landscape of mangroves, pelicans and clouds of waders, and you will rarely be disappointed. Bring binoculars if you have them, and a zoom lens makes a real difference for photographs because the boat keeps a respectful distance from the birds.
Las Coloradas is the other half of the day for many visitors. The salt works there produce the vivid pink lagoons that appear in so many photographs, and the colour is strongest in bright, high sun. Visitors normally walk to a viewpoint rather than swim, since the lakes are part of a working industrial site, and some operators add a stop at a mud pool or a beach. Check with the operator what your day includes and how long you will spend at each place, because the schedule varies between tours.
Practical planning matters on this one. The drive is long, so expect an early start and a late return, particularly if Ek Balam is part of the day. Wear a hat, sunglasses, a light long-sleeved shirt and plenty of sunscreen, since there is no shade on the water, and carry insect repellent for the mangroves. Bring a little cash in pesos for tips and snacks, and wear shoes that can get wet.
It is a good fit for a second or third day in the region, after you have seen Chichén Itzá, and it works well for families with children who enjoy animals. Staying in Valladolid keeps the drive far shorter than it would be from the coast, which is one reason the town makes such a useful base.
Ask a few questions before you commit. Check where the tour starts and ends, whether lunch is included, how long you spend on the water and how many people share a boat, because smaller boats are quieter and better for photographs. If you are staying in Valladolid, a pick-up from your hotel removes the stress of the long drive.
Keep a light jacket handy for the early start, since the air can feel cool before sunrise warms the coast. Finally, remember that this is a wild place: follow your guide's instructions, keep your hands inside the boat and leave the birds undisturbed.
What to expect
The experience
A guided boat tour through the mangrove channels and lagoons of the Río Lagartos coast, usually with a stop at the pink salt lakes of Las Coloradas and, on this tour, a visit to Ek Balam.
Best time
Morning, when the light is soft and the birds are active, with the pink lakes at their most vivid in bright midday sun.
How long
A full day, with a long drive each way from Valladolid.
Tips
Bring a hat, sunscreen, repellent and binoculars, wear shoes that can get wet, and ask what the day includes before you go.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who want wildlife and open water after a few days of ruins, and keen photographers.
- Families
- Children usually love the boat, the crocodile spotting and the pink water, but the day is long and the sun is strong.
- Couples
- A peaceful boat ride at the quietest hours, followed by the pink lakes in the afternoon light.
- Pair with
- Ek Balam on the same day, and a night in Valladolid.
- Time needed
- A full day from an early start to the evening.
Good questions
Will I definitely see flamingos?+
Flamingos are common on the coast, but wild birds move with the season, tide and weather, so numbers vary. A good guide knows where they are feeding on the day.
Can you swim in the pink lakes at Las Coloradas?+
Visitors usually look from a viewpoint rather than swim, since the lakes belong to a working salt operation. Check with your operator what is allowed on your day.
How far is Río Lagartos from Valladolid?+
It is roughly an hour and a half by road, so plan for an early start and a late return. The drive is part of the day.
What should I wear?+
Wear a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, a light long-sleeved top and shoes that can get wet, and carry insect repellent for the mangroves.
Is it suitable for children?+
Yes, many children enjoy the boat and the animals, but the day is long and there is no shade on the water, so bring water and snacks.
