Wine is the reason many people visit Moldova, and the country makes it easy: the best-known cellars are close to the capital, tours include transport and prices are modest. The challenge is choosing, because the main producers offer different experiences. This guide explains the differences and how to build a tasting trip that suits your interests.
Underground versus estate
Moldova's two most famous cellars, Cricova and Milestii Mici, are in former limestone quarries. The tunnels keep a steady cool temperature, which is why wine is stored there, and visitors ride through them in vehicles. Estate wineries such as Mimi Castle and Chateau Purcari are above ground, with vineyards, gardens and modern tasting rooms. Underground cellars offer spectacle; estates offer atmosphere and a closer look at the vines.
Cricova
Known for sparkling wine and a ceremonial feel, Cricova suits first-time visitors. The tour includes electric transport through streets named after wines, and the tasting is a polished introduction. It is close to Chisinau and combines easily with Orheiul Vechi. Book ahead for weekends and autumn.
Milestii Mici
This cellar is famous for the size of its collection. The galleries are long enough to drive through, and the sense of scale is the main attraction. The tasting covers a mix of styles and is good for comparing local and international grapes. It sits south of the capital and pairs with Hincesti and the Manuc Bei Mansion.
Mimi Castle
A restored estate with gardens, cellars and a relaxed tasting, Mimi is popular with couples and photographers. It is a good option if you have already seen a tunnel cellar or if you want a shorter outing, and it lies on the road toward Transnistria, which allows combined tours.
Chateau Purcari
Located in the south-east, Purcari is the choice for serious wine fans. The estate has a long tradition and is known for a signature red. It is a full-day trip, so choose it if wine is the main purpose of your visit and you have time for the drive.
What to taste
Moldova grows international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, but the local varieties are more distinctive. Feteasca Alba and Feteasca Regala are aromatic whites, Feteasca Neagra and Rara Neagra are deep reds, and Saperavi appears in some blends. Sparkling wines made by the traditional method are often excellent value. Ask your guide for a flight that includes at least one local variety.
Planning your tasting trip
One cellar per day is comfortable; two is possible if they are close. A good pair is Cricova and Orheiul Vechi on one day, then Milestii Mici and Manuc Bei on another. Wear layers for the tunnels, eat a proper lunch and drink water between tastings. Do not drive after tasting: use a tour with transport or a private driver. Ask about shipping or packing bottles, as many shops can help.
Buying wine
Cellar shops sell bottles at prices that are hard to match abroad. Ask for older vintages, which are a speciality, and for wines that are not widely exported. Check airline rules for liquids in hand luggage, and pack bottles in checked luggage with plenty of padding. Customs allowances for alcohol vary by country, so check before you buy.
Beyond the big names
Smaller family wineries and village cellars also welcome visitors, and some tours include a home tasting with cheese and bread. If you have an extra day, ask your operator about a visit to a family producer, where the owner may pour from the barrel and explain the harvest.
A sample tasting day
Start with a morning pick-up from your hotel and a drive to Cricova, where the first tasting is usually sparkling wine. Move to a light lunch of cheese, bread and cured meat, then continue to a second stop in the afternoon. Keep the afternoon tasting small, since the cool tunnels and several glasses can sneak up on you. Drink water between tastings, spit if you want to keep a clear head, and ask the guide to note down the wines you liked.
Wine tourism etiquette
Cellars welcome visitors but expect respect. Do not touch bottles on the racks, stay with the group in the tunnels and follow photography rules, which can be stricter in private collections. If you are with non-drinkers, ask whether juice or tea can be offered at the tasting. Tip your guide if the service was good, and buy at least one bottle from the shop as a courtesy and as a keepsake.
When to go
The harvest in early autumn brings the best atmosphere, and a national wine festival in early October draws crowds to the capital. Spring is quieter and pleasant, and the cellars are cool and comfortable year-round. Summer afternoons can be hot, so book morning tours. Winter visits are possible and inexpensive, with cosy tasting rooms.
