Old Cathedral (Sé Velha)

The Sé Velha, or Old Cathedral, is the finest Romanesque building in Portugal and one of the few medieval churches in the country that still looks like it did when it was finished. Work began in the twelfth century under the first bishops of Coimbra, in the years when Afonso Henriques was fighting the Moors and Coimbra was the capital of the young kingdom. The architects built it like a fortress, with thick walls, small windows and crenellated battlements, because the city was still a frontier town and the church had to be defended. The west front is almost severe, with a deep, round-arched portal, and the whole building feels strong, plain and serious. Inside, the light is dim and the stone is cool, and the quiet is the main attraction. The high altar carries a gilded altarpiece created by Flemish and Portuguese artists in the early sixteenth century, one of the richest works of its kind in the country, and the nave is lined with simple columns that show the early Romanesque style at its best. The Gothic cloister, added a little later, is a peaceful rectangle of arches around a courtyard where you can sit and listen to the city below.

The cathedral makes more sense when you read it against the city. In the twelfth century Coimbra was the seat of the Portuguese kings, and the Sé Velha was the church of the new kingdom. After the capital moved to Lisbon, a newer cathedral, the Sé Nova, took over much of the ceremonial role, but the old building survives as the more authentic one.

If you walk up through the Almedina quarter on the way to the university, you will pass its doors, and it makes a natural stop on the climb. Because the building is so plain on the outside, many visitors walk past without noticing how important it is, so slow down at the doorway and look at the carved arches before you step in.

Visiting is straightforward. The church is usually open daily, with a small ticket for the cloister and some side areas, and services take place at set times, so check before going. Dress modestly, keep your voice low and be aware of worshippers. The nave is free to enter in many periods, while the cloister and treasury may carry a small charge.

There is plenty to notice. Look for the carved capitals, the stone font, the side chapels with Gothic tombs and the mason's marks on the walls. The Flemish altarpiece rewards a long look, with carved scenes and gilded detail that show the wealth of late medieval Coimbra. From the terrace outside you also get fine views over the roofs of the old town, which gives a good sense of how the cathedral dominated the medieval skyline.

Allow forty-five minutes to an hour. A guided walk that explains the cathedral, the kings of Coimbra and the old town is a good way to see it in context, and it fits easily into a morning that also takes in the university and the Almedina arch. Wear shoes with grip, because the stones outside are smooth and steep.