Most first trips to Costa Rica start in San José and head straight for the volcano. That is a good instinct, but the capital deserves a day, and Arenal deserves more time than most people give it. Here is how to plan a first visit to the two, with the day trips that make the most sense from each.
When to go
The dry season in the Central Valley and Arenal runs roughly from December to April, with the clearest volcano views and the busiest, priciest hotels. May to November is the green season, with sunny mornings and afternoon rain; Arenal gets rain in any month, so pack a light jacket whatever the date. November is a sweet spot: the forest is lush, rivers and waterfalls are full, and the crowds have not yet arrived.
How many days
Give it six or seven nights. Plan two in San José, one on arrival and one at the end, with a full day for a trip to Irazú Volcano or La Paz Waterfall Gardens, and four or five in La Fortuna. That leaves time for the volcano hike, the waterfall, the hanging bridges or zipline, a hot-springs evening and one big day out to Río Celeste, with a spare day for weather.
Getting between the two
La Fortuna is about three hours from San José by road. You can rent a car, which gives the most freedom around Arenal, take a shared tourist shuttle with hotel pickup, or use a private transfer. Public buses run too, but are slower. Roads are winding and fog is common in the mountains, so avoid driving after dark.
What to book ahead
In the dry season, book hotels early, especially the hot-springs resorts. Book the Río Celeste day trip and the Irazú or La Paz tours a few days ahead, since they include park fees and pickups; Irazú entry must be bought online in advance anyway, with a passport. The La Fortuna Waterfall and Mistico Hanging Bridges tickets have free cancellation, so reserve your preferred morning. The Tabacón day pass is non-refundable, so book that once your dates are fixed.
Where the headline sights fit
In San José, spend an afternoon at the Pre-Columbian Gold Museum and the National Theatre, which face each other across Plaza de la Cultura, and take one day trip into the mountains: Irazú for a volcano crater, or La Paz for waterfalls and cloud forest. In La Fortuna, do the Arenal Volcano hike early on your first morning, then the waterfall; spend a second morning at Mistico or ziplining at Sky Adventures; give a full day to Río Celeste; and save an evening for Tabacón or your hotel’s springs.
Getting around Arenal
La Fortuna town is small and walkable, but most sights are a short drive out. Tours usually include hotel pickup; otherwise taxis are easy to find. A car makes it simple to visit the hanging bridges and Sky Adventures on the lake side of the volcano.
What to skip or swap
Poás Volcano, once the classic half-day from San José, has closed and reopened several times since 2025 because of eruptive activity, so check its status before booking anything that includes it; La Paz Waterfall Gardens and Irazú are reliable alternatives. Monteverde’s cloud forest is wonderful but sits several hours from both bases, so treat it as a separate stop with its own nights rather than a day trip.
Money and manners
US dollars are widely accepted in tourist areas, but carry some colones for small purchases, park fees and tips. Cards work almost everywhere. Tap water is generally safe in San José and La Fortuna. Bring insect repellent, reef-safe sunscreen, quick-dry clothes and closed shoes with grip for muddy trails. Costa Ricans greet each other with pura vida, and patience and a smile go a long way.