Church of the Society of Jesus

The Church of the Society of Jesus, known simply as La Compania, is the other great church on Cusco's Plaza de Armas, and for many visitors it is the more beautiful of the two. It stands on the southeast side of the square, on the site of Amarucancha, the palace associated with the Inca Huayna Capac, and its twin-towered facade is one of the finest examples of Andean Baroque architecture in Peru. The Jesuits built their church to make a statement, and its grandeur famously provoked a dispute with the bishop, who felt the new church competed with the Cathedral next door; the story is a staple of local guides. The present building was raised after the great earthquake of 1650 damaged the earlier church. Inside, the single nave is lined with carved and gilded altarpieces, and the main altar rises to the ceiling in gold leaf, with a statue of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception at its heart. Look for the colonial paintings near the entrance, including the well-known canvas of the marriage of Martin Garcia de Loyola, nephew of Saint Ignatius, to the Inca princess Beatriz, a striking image of the alliances between Spanish and Inca nobility. A ticket also gives access to the bell tower, and the view from the upper level across the plaza to the Cathedral and the red-tiled rooftops is one of the best in the city. The Tiqets entry ticket, provided by a local operator, includes the church and the bell tower; you exchange the phone voucher for a paper ticket at a shop on Calle Triunfo before entering. Fit: first-time visitors on the Plaza de Armas, lovers of Baroque art and photographers looking for the classic overview of the square.

How it fits into a Cusco day: La Compania is a short visit, usually 45 minutes to an hour, which makes it easy to combine with the Cathedral across the square, Qorikancha a few blocks down Calle Loreto, and the Inca walls of Hatun Rumiyoc. The facade is best photographed in afternoon light from the center of the plaza, and lit up at night it is one of the defining images of Cusco. Inside, photography rules can be strict, so check at the door and respect services; the church remains a place of worship and visiting hours may change around masses and religious holidays.

What to look for: the gilded high altar and the side altarpieces, the carved pulpit, the paintings of the Cusco School, and the marriage canvas near the entrance. Climb the bell tower slowly, as the steps are narrow and you are at altitude, and look down to see how the plaza sits on the old Inca main square, Huacaypata. From above, the alignment of La Compania and the Cathedral shows why the bishop saw the Jesuits as rivals.

Practical notes: the church is open daily, generally from morning to late afternoon, with visiting hours adjusted around services. The Plaza de Armas will be the focus of large crowds around major religious and civic events; in particular, Pope Leo XIV is scheduled to lead the Angelus on the Cathedral square on 15 November 2026, so expect closures and heavy security in the center that weekend. Dress respectfully, keep voices low and be ready for the altitude on the tower steps.