The northern coast of Cyprus has some of the island’s most romantic scenery, a strip of harbour towns and mountain castles beneath the Pentadaktylos range. This day trip from Paphos crosses to the north and visits its three best-known places: Kyrenia, with its horseshoe harbour and Venetian castle; St Hilarion, a fairy-tale ruin perched on a crag; and Bellapais, where the Gothic remains of a medieval abbey look out over the sea. Together they give a taste of the island’s layered history, from the Lusignans and Venetians to the Ottomans and British, in a single long day. Kyrenia harbour is the centrepiece, a crescent of golden stone buildings and cafés around a small marina, with fishing boats and the castle walls on one side. St Hilarion, said to have inspired the castle in Disney’s Snow White, climbs through three levels of walls and towers to a summit with sweeping views of the coast. Bellapais Abbey, founded in the thirteenth century, has a beautiful cloister and refectory, and the village around it is the setting for Lawrence Durrell’s Bitter Lemons. The trip is demanding in distance but generous in scenery, and it suits travellers who want to see more of the island than the south coast.
How it works
You reserve a place for your date and are collected in the Paphos area early in the morning, since the journey is long. The route crosses the island and passes through a checkpoint on the line that divides the island, so you must carry your passport and follow the guide’s instructions on the day.
The trip uses a minibus or coach with an English-speaking guide, and returns in the evening. Entrance fees for the sights may or may not be included, so check the details when you reserve, and bring some euros or other currency for entrances and lunch.
What to expect
Expect a long day with several hours on the road, so bring something to read or listen to. At Kyrenia you have time to walk the harbour and visit the castle and, if you wish, the shipwreck museum inside it. St Hilarion involves a climb on steps and uneven stone, rewarded with the views.
Bellapais has a shaded square and cafés beside the abbey. Wear comfortable shoes, a hat and sun cream, carry water and dress modestly for the abbey. Rules at the crossing can change, so follow the operator’s up-to-date advice and check the latest travel guidance for your nationality before you go.
Making the most of it
Spring and autumn are the best seasons, when the temperatures suit climbing around the castle, while summer calls for an early start and plenty of water. Go with a flexible attitude to time, because border queues and traffic can vary. Take photographs at the harbour in the afternoon light, and try the local dishes at lunch. If you prefer a shorter outing, the Nicosia Green Line walk and the Famagusta trip give other views of the north, and the Kourion and Troodos days cover the south and mountains.
This trip is best for travellers who like long, full days and want a fuller picture of the island. Because the trip crosses the dividing line, it is sensible to check the latest travel guidance from your own government and the details from the operator in the days before your date. Keep your passport somewhere easy to reach, bring a small bag rather than a large one, and be prepared to follow the guide’s timing so that the group does not miss the return crossing.
What to expect
The experience
A long guided day trip by minibus across the island to Kyrenia harbour, St Hilarion Castle and Bellapais Abbey.
Best time
Spring and autumn, when the climb to the castle is comfortable.
How long
A full day, often ten to twelve hours including the crossing and travel.
Tips
Carry your passport, wear sturdy shoes, bring water and a hat, and follow the operator’s up-to-date advice on the crossing.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History and scenery lovers who want to see the northern coast in a single day.
- Families
- Older children who enjoy castles will like it, but the day is long and the climb at St Hilarion is steep.
- Couples
- Romantic setting at the harbour and the abbey, with views from the castle.
- Pair with
- The Nicosia Green Line walk or the Famagusta and Varosha day trip.
- Time needed
- A full day from Paphos, starting early.
Good questions
Do I need a passport?+
Yes, you must carry your passport for the crossing, and the guide will explain the procedure on the day.
Is St Hilarion hard to climb?+
It involves steps and uneven stone, with a steady climb to the upper levels. Take your time and wear sturdy shoes.
Are entrance fees included?+
This varies by tour, so check what is included for your date.
How long is the journey?+
It is a long day, with several hours on the road each way from Paphos. Expect to be away for most of the day.
Is the trip suitable for children?+
Children who like castles will enjoy it, but the day is long, so bring snacks and entertainment.
