Paphos and Limassol sit about an hour apart on the south coast of Cyprus, and together they make the easiest first trip to the island: Roman mosaics and rock-cut tombs in Paphos, a castle, old port and lively seafront in Limassol, and the Troodos mountains and the wild Akamas peninsula within a day’s reach of both. Here is how to plan it.
When to go
Summer is hot, dry and busy, and the sea is warm from June to October. Spring and autumn are the sweet spots for sightseeing, with mild days for walking around the ruins and the mountains. November is still pleasant on the coast, with sunshine most days and a sea that many visitors still swim in, but evenings are cooler, the mountains are much colder than the shore, and some seasonal businesses, such as the water parks, are closed. In winter, from December to February, the coast is quiet and green, the Troodos can see snow, and the archaeological sites are almost empty.
How many days
Give it five to seven nights. Three or four in Paphos covers the Kato Paphos mosaics, the Tombs of the Kings, a Blue Lagoon or Akamas day and a Troodos day. Two or three in Limassol covers the castle and old town, the Troodos wine villages and Kourion. If you only have a long weekend, base yourself in one town and choose two day trips.
Getting around
Paphos airport is right by Paphos; Limassol lies roughly halfway between Paphos airport and Larnaca, the island’s main airport, both about an hour’s drive. Cyprus drives on the left, and a rental car gives the most freedom, especially for Kourion, Petra tou Romiou and the mountains. Intercity buses link Paphos and Limassol, and local buses run within each town, but services to the villages are limited. Without a car, guided day tours with hotel pickup are the simplest way to reach the Troodos, Akamas and Kourion.
What to book ahead
The archaeological sites sell tickets at the gate, so there is nothing to book; consider a Department of Antiquities one-, three- or seven-day card if you plan to visit several state sites. Book day tours a few days ahead: the Troodos food and wine tour from Limassol runs only on set dates and has tiny groups, and the Kourion day trip from Paphos currently runs on Saturdays. For the Blue Lagoon, check the boat calendar in the cooler months, since trips are weather-dependent and less frequent in winter; the Akamas jeep safari is the reliable land alternative.
Where the headline sights fit
In Paphos, spend your first morning at the Kato Paphos Archaeological Park, then lunch at the harbour and visit the Tombs of the Kings in the late afternoon. Give one full day to the Akamas, by boat to the Blue Lagoon or by jeep through Avakas Gorge, and another to the Troodos mountains and Omodos. On the drive or tour between the two towns, stop at Kourion for the clifftop theatre and at Petra tou Romiou for Aphrodite’s Rock. In Limassol, start at the castle, walk the old town and the seafront to the marina, and give a day to the wine villages. Keep the Paradox Museum for a wet or windy afternoon.
Winter and opening hours
State sites switch to winter hours from mid-September to mid-April, generally closing at five in the afternoon, and close on a few major holidays, so plan sightseeing for the mornings and early afternoons. Limassol Castle closes on public holidays. Bring a warm layer for the mountains at any time from November to April.
Money and manners
Cyprus uses the euro, cards are accepted almost everywhere, and English is widely spoken. Tipping around ten per cent in restaurants is appreciated. Dress modestly in monasteries and churches, with shoulders and knees covered. Order a meze at least once: a long parade of small dishes that is the best introduction to Cypriot food.
