Most visitors think of northern Tanzania, with the Serengeti and Ngorongoro, when they plan a safari, but Dar es Salaam is the gateway to a different set of parks that are closer, less crowded and often better value. Mikumi, Nyerere and Saadani can all be done from the city in a day or a few days, and they suit travellers with limited time or a taste for wilder places. The northern circuit has its own markets and operators, and this guide covers only the parks within easy reach of Dar es Salaam.
Mikumi National Park
About 280 kilometres west of the city, Mikumi is the easiest big-game park to reach. Its open floodplain is home to elephants, giraffes, zebras, buffaloes, wildebeest, impala and hippos, and lions are seen regularly. With the modern standard gauge railway running part of the route, a day trip is feasible, though it is long. An overnight trip with an evening and a dawn drive is much better, and many operators offer two-day packages with a camp or lodge stay. Mikumi suits first-time safari goers, families and those with only a day or two.
Nyerere National Park (Selous)
Nyerere covers the northern part of the area long known as the Selous Game Reserve, one of the largest protected areas in Africa. It is wilder and more remote, with the Rufiji River and its lakes at the centre. Boat safaris among hippos and crocodiles, game drives, and in some camps walking safaris, make it a varied and exciting experience. The park is known for elephants, lions, giraffes, buffaloes and African wild dogs. Three days is the usual minimum, and you can travel by road in about five to six hours or by a short flight. Nyerere suits travellers who want a more adventurous, less crowded safari.
Saadani National Park
Saadani lies north of Bagamoyo and is one of the few parks in the region where the savannah meets the ocean. It offers game drives, a boat safari on the Wami River and a beach, and it works as a day tour or, better, an overnight stay. Wildlife is less dense than in Mikumi or Nyerere, but the mix of wildlife and coast is distinctive. It pairs well with Bagamoyo.
Choosing between them
If you have one day, choose Mikumi or Saadani, and expect a long day. If you have two days, choose a Mikumi overnight or a Saadani and Bagamoyo combination. If you have three or more days and want a real safari, choose Nyerere. For birdlife and green landscapes, the wetter months can be excellent, while for wildlife viewing the dry months from June to October are best.
Cost and style
Prices vary widely, from budget camping with shared vehicles to luxury tented camps and fly-in packages. Day trips and short overnight trips are the cheapest, and Nyerere is more expensive because of distance and accommodation. Always check what is included, such as park fees, transport, meals, accommodation, the number of game drives and boat trips, and whether the vehicle has a pop-up roof for photography. Smaller groups give a better experience.
Booking and safety
Use a reputable operator with good recent reviews, ask about the vehicles and guides, and confirm the schedule. Many operators collect from Dar es Salaam hotels. Roads to the parks can be rough in the rains, and some camps close in the wettest months. Take malaria precautions on the advice of a doctor, and follow your guide's instructions on wildlife at all times.
What to pack
Neutral-coloured clothing, a hat, sunscreen, insect repellent, binoculars, a camera with a zoom lens, a warm layer for dawn and a small day bag. Bring cash for tips, which are customary for guides and drivers.
Combining safari and coast
A short safari followed by a few days of beach time at the coast or on an island is a classic Tanzanian pairing. Dar es Salaam is a good place to begin and end, with a night in a central hotel before an early departure and a swim and a good dinner after your return.
Plan a buffer
Always allow a spare day between a safari return and an international flight, because delays on rough roads and train timetables can run over. If you are flying out of Dar es Salaam the next morning, book a hotel near the airport or the centre and ask your operator to confirm the expected return time.