Katherine Gorge Day Trip

Nitmiluk National Park, centred on Katherine Gorge, is one of the great landscapes of the Top End and a worthwhile addition to a Darwin stay. Thirteen sandstone gorges are carved by the Katherine River, and the main boat cruises glide between sheer walls that glow orange in the sun. The park is owned by the Jawoyn people, who call the place Nitmiluk, and cruises include interpretation of Dreaming stories that shape the land. It lies about 320 kilometres south of Darwin, so a day trip is a very long outing, usually around 12 to 14 hours. Most tours combine a gorge cruise with a stop at Edith Falls, called Leliyn, where a series of cascades empties into a deep, inviting swimming pool. If time allows, an overnight stay is more relaxing.

The drive south along the Stuart Highway passes savanna, termite mounds and small outback towns, and gives a feel for the scale of the Northern Territory. Tour operators often stop for morning tea at Adelaide River or Pine Creek. On arrival at Nitmiluk, you board a boat for the first gorge, drifting past towering cliffs, rock art galleries and hidden side channels.

In the dry season the river is calm and clear, and you may spot freshwater crocodiles sunning on rocks, which are shy and far less dangerous than their saltwater cousins. Cruises can range from a two-hour trip through the first two gorges to a longer trip into the remote third gorge, so check what your tour includes.

Edith Falls is the reward after a long morning. A short walk leads to the main pool, which is deep, cool and fringed by pandanus palms. A series of upper pools can be reached by a longer walk for those with energy. Swimming is permitted in the main pool when conditions are safe, and rangers monitor it regularly. Bring swimwear, a towel and water shoes. Lunch is usually included or can be purchased at the kiosk.

Think carefully about the logistics. The road time is significant, so if you are sensitive to long coach rides consider breaking the journey with a night in Katherine, which also opens up options such as the hot springs and a longer cruise. The wet season, from November to April, can limit access to some areas, with flooded gorges and closed walks, though the waterfalls are at their most dramatic.

The dry season is the standard time to visit. Pack a hat, sunscreen, repellent and a camera, and wear walking shoes. If you prefer a shorter day, consider Litchfield instead, but if you want the grandest scenery in the region, Nitmiluk is worth the effort.