El Paso food is border food, which means it belongs to neither Tex-Mex nor New Mexican cooking alone. The city sits where the cuisines of Chihuahua, New Mexico and Texas meet, and the result is a distinctive, chile-forward kitchen with plenty of history behind it. You will eat well here on almost any budget.
Breakfast
Start with a breakfast burrito or a plate of huevos rancheros, usually with refried beans, potatoes and a warm tortilla. Chile is a defining flavor, and many places offer a choice of red or green sauce. Ask for Christmas if you want both. Menudo, a traditional tripe soup, is a weekend favorite for locals, and fresh pan dulce is a great accompaniment to coffee.
Lunch
Lunch is the time for enchiladas, tacos, chile rellenos, tamales and caldos. Look for cheese enchiladas stacked flat in the New Mexican style rather than rolled, and for rellenos filled with cheese and fried until golden. Many family restaurants serve a daily special and a basket of chips and salsa. Prices are generally modest, and portions can be generous, so share when you can. Long-running local spots near the old neighborhoods are worth seeking, and your hotel or the visitor bureau can suggest current favorites.
Border classics
Flautas, deep-fried rolled tacos often served in a pool of sauce, are an El Paso tradition, as are burritos stuffed with beans, chile and meat. Chile con queso, a warm cheese dip, is a staple appetizer. Gorditas, sopes and tortas are common on both sides of the border. If you cross to Ciudad Juarez with a guide, your tour may include regional dishes such as burritos de machaca and fresh tortillas with grilled meats.
Hatch chile season
Late summer is the high season for chile from the nearby Hatch valley in New Mexico, and you will see roasters turning drums of green chile in grocery store parking lots. If you visit in August or September, buy a bag, ask a local how they like to cook it and try green chile cheeseburgers and stew. Out of season, frozen and jarred chile keep the flavor available year-round.
Sweets and cold drinks
In hot weather, paletas, shaved ice and fresh fruit aguas frescas such as horchata and jamaica are perfect for cooling down. Churros, empanadas and sopaipillas with honey round out the dessert menu. For adults, margaritas are everywhere, and the city also has a growing craft beer and distillery scene. Mezcal and tequila lists are broad, and many bars pair them with small plates. Drink water between rounds, because the dry air and altitude make dehydration come on quickly.
Eating by neighborhood
Downtown has coffee shops, tacos and bars within walking distance of the Plaza Theatre and the ballpark. The Mission Trail and San Elizario have small family restaurants and cafes where a long lunch fits the pace of the day. Near the mountains and on the north side, you will find casual spots that suit hikers coming off the trail. Wherever you eat, look for places with a line of locals at lunch.
Practical tips
Ask about spice level, because chile varies widely from mild to hot. Many restaurants close one day a week or keep short hours on Sundays. Tipping follows standard US customs, and cash is useful at smaller places. If you have dietary needs, vegetarian options are common, but ask whether beans and rice are made with lard. Reserve ahead for larger groups on weekends, and plan your meals around your sightseeing so that the heaviest dish does not land right before a hike.
A sample food day
Begin with a breakfast burrito and strong coffee, hike early, then return for a lunch of cheese enchiladas and a cold agua fresca. In the afternoon, stop for a paleta or a sweet pastry, and finish with flautas or tacos and a margarita at sunset. If you are crossing to Juarez, keep that day light on breakfast so you arrive hungry for a late lunch, and drink plenty of water. If you travel with children, many restaurants will happily make plain quesadillas or bean-and-cheese burritos, which keeps everyone fed without fuss. Finally, save room for dessert whenever a bakery or paleta shop catches your eye, because the best sweets here are often found in small neighborhood shops rather than in big restaurants.
