Eating and Drinking in the Keys

Eating in the Upper and Middle Keys is a pleasure if you embrace the local menu: fresh fish, seasonal shellfish, tropical flavors and informal waterfront settings. Prices can be high for what you get in some places, so a little guidance helps. This guide explains what to order, when to eat and how to find the good spots without any one list of restaurants.Start with the fish. Yellowtail snapper, mahi-mahi, grouper, hogfish and tuna are common local catches, and the best restaurants will tell you what came in that day. A fish sandwich, grilled or blackened, is the classic casual order, and a whole fried snapper is a showpiece at a good fish house. Ask the server where the fish came from and what is freshest. Be cautious with menus that feature unusually long lists of fish, because freshness can suffer.Seasonal shellfish. Stone crab claws are a regional delicacy, served chilled with mustard sauce, and the harvest season generally runs from mid-October to early May. Spiny lobster is another prize, in season from August through March, with a special sport mini-season in late summer. Conch, pronounced konk, appears as fritters, chowder and ceviche; much of what is served today is imported, so ask if you care. Shrimp is common and may be Gulf pink shrimp, which are sweet and tender.Key lime pie. The local dessert is made with the small, tart Key lime, sweetened condensed milk and a graham cracker crust. Debate continues over whether it should be green, whether it should be frozen on a stick and whether it needs meringue or whipped cream. Order a slice at least once and compare. Authentic versions are pale yellow, tart and creamy, not bright green.Waterfront bars and sunsets. Many restaurants in Key Largo, Islamorada and Marathon sit on docks or decks, with views of the water and sunsets. These are casual, often loud places where you can order a drink and a plate of fritters and watch the boats. Rum drinks, frozen cocktails and local beers are the norm. Arrive early for sunset seating, and check whether the place takes reservations. Mosquitoes can appear at dusk, so ask for a table with a breeze.Fish houses and markets. Some of the best meals come from small fish markets with kitchens, where you can buy fresh fish and have it cooked or take it away. Staying in a unit with a kitchen lets you grill a snapper bought that morning. Charter captains often sell or give away part of the catch, and some restaurants will cook your catch if you ask. These arrangements vary, so ask rather than assume.Breakfast and coffee. Breakfast spots are plentiful, with simple plates of eggs, grits and Cuban toast, plus coffee. Cuban coffee, served strong and sweet in tiny cups, is available in many cafes, as are Cuban sandwiches, empanadas and pastries. Hotels may charge for breakfast, so check whether it is included.Budget and timing. Menu prices in the Keys reflect delivery costs and tourism demand, so lunch is cheaper than dinner and happy hours can offer savings. Reservations are wise for dinner in winter, and some restaurants close on certain days or between seasons. Tip well, since service staff often work hard through busy periods. Bring cash for small stands and markets in case card readers are down.Drinking responsibly. Boat trips, sunset cruises and bars mix with heat and sun, so drink water between cocktails, avoid driving after drinking and use taxis or ride services when you can. Never operate a boat while impaired. Enjoy the sunset, the fish and the unhurried pace, and leave room for another slice of pie.Ordering like a regular. Ask what is fresh, order one local specialty and share a few starters, and you will usually eat better than if you chase a long menu. Watch for daily specials on the board, ask about portion sizes and be open to trying a fish you do not know. Take note of places that locals fill early, and book them for a weeknight. If you are staying a few days, repeat a favorite place once, because staff remember regulars and often add a small extra. A good meal on the water is one of the Keys' simplest pleasures.