Florida Keys for First-Timers

The Florida Keys are a 113-mile chain of islands strung together by the Overseas Highway, and the stretch from Key Largo to Marathon is the part most first-time visitors see first. It is also the part that rewards the least planning, as long as you understand a few basics. This guide covers the Upper Keys around Key Largo and Islamorada and the Middle Keys around Marathon; Key West, at the far end, has its own guide and deserves its own nights.Mile markers run the show. Addresses in the Keys are given by mile marker, abbreviated MM, on small green signs beside the road. They count down from about 126 near Florida City to zero in Key West. Key Largo runs roughly from MM 106 to 91, Islamorada from about MM 91 to 73, and Marathon from about MM 60 to 47. Knowing this makes directions easy: if a restaurant is at MM 84 and you are at MM 97, you drive south thirteen miles. Also learn the sides of the road, because bayside means the Gulf or Florida Bay side and oceanside means the Atlantic side.Getting here. Most visitors fly into Miami or Fort Lauderdale and drive. Allow about an hour and a quarter to reach Key Largo, two hours to Islamorada and two and a half to Marathon, and add time for weekend and holiday traffic, since the highway is one lane in each direction in many places. Rental cars are the norm; the Keys are not walkable between towns. Fill your tank and bring water, sunscreen and snacks before you cross onto the islands, because services thin out between the larger towns.Where to base yourself. Key Largo suits divers, snorkelers and anyone who wants to be close to Miami and to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Islamorada suits anglers, sunset lovers and travelers who want a mix of attractions, restaurants and bars, with Theater of the Sea, Robbies and the History of Diving Museum nearby. Marathon suits families and travelers who want to be in the middle of the chain, with the Turtle Hospital, the Dolphin Research Center, Sombrero Reef and the Seven Mile Bridge. If you only have a couple of nights, pick one base and explore around it rather than moving every night.What to do first. Start with the water, because that is what the Keys do best. A reef snorkel trip or a glass-bottom boat ride gives you a look at the only living coral barrier reef in the continental United States, and the Christ of the Abyss statue is the best-known underwater landmark. If you want a gentler introduction, paddle a mangrove trail, feed tarpon at Robbies or take a sunset cruise. Then add a land-based stop or two: the Turtle Hospital for conservation, Windley Key for fossil coral, Indian Key for history. Book popular boat trips and tours ahead, especially from winter through spring.Beaches are not what you expect. The Keys are built on coral limestone and mangroves, so natural sandy beaches are scarce. Some resorts have man-made beaches, and a few parks have small sandy areas, but most swimming is in pools or on boats. Set expectations accordingly and treat the water, not the sand, as the main attraction. Bring water shoes for rocky entries and a rash guard for sun protection.Weather and seasons. Winter is dry, warm and busy. Summer is hot and humid, with afternoon thunderstorms, and hurricane season runs from June through November. Mornings are usually calm, and afternoons are best for shade, museums, a long lunch or a pool. Cold fronts in winter bring wind that can cancel boat trips, so keep a flexible day in your schedule and read cancellation terms carefully.Money and manners. Prices in the Keys are higher than on the mainland, especially for lodging, and many places add resort or parking fees, so read the fine print. Tip boat crews and guides when they do a good job. Respect the sanctuary rules: do not touch coral, do not feed wildlife and use reef-safe sunscreen. Be patient with the highway, where the speed limit is low and passing is limited, and never stop on a bridge for a photograph.Common mistakes. Trying to cover the whole chain in a day is the biggest one, because the driving eats the time. Waiting until you arrive to book boat trips is the second, since the best departures fill. Skipping sunscreen on a cloudy day is the third. Underestimating the heat is the fourth. Plan one main activity per day, leave room to linger at a waterfront restaurant and keep the evenings simple. The Keys reward slow travelers.