St Nicholas' Church, Ghent

St Nicholas' Church stands on the edge of the Korenmarkt, in the busiest and most central spot in Ghent, and it is the first of the city's three medieval towers that you meet as you walk from the station area towards the quays. It was built from the thirteenth century as the church of the merchants and craftsmen, in a local style known as Scheldt Gothic, using dark Tournai bluestone that gives the exterior its sober, powerful look. A lantern tower rises from the crossing of the nave and transepts rather than above the entrance, which is unusual, and it lets light fall into the interior. Inside, the guilds that once had chapels here left altars and artworks, and the church holds a romantic organ by Aristide Cavaille-Coll from the nineteenth century, stained glass from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries and a large altar painting showing Nicholas being appointed bishop of Myra. Entrance is free, which makes it an easy and worthwhile stop between the bigger sights.

The church was created at a time when Ghent was growing rich on cloth and trade, and its position beside the grain market was no accident. Merchants and artisans worshipped here, and the guilds paid for chapels and decoration, so the building reflects the power of the city's working classes as much as that of its clergy. Architects describe it as the first parish church in the Low Countries to use a new urban style, one that suited a town with limited space and large ambitions.

The bluestone gives the exterior a sombre grandeur that contrasts with the pale facades of the nearby guild houses, and the slender spire and corner turrets echo the Belfry and the cathedral tower, with which it forms the famous skyline view from the Sint-Michielsbrug.

Inside, the nave has been restored, and the organ on the rood loft above the western portal is visible again, which makes the entrance view more impressive. The side chapels and aisles contain paintings and monuments from several centuries, and the windows are worth a pause: nineteenth century glass by Capronnier tells the life of Mary and the Crucifixion, while modern windows by Herman Blondeel show the seven sacraments.

Opening hours and any concerts or services vary, so check the church's own website before you go and respect worship if you arrive during a service. A quiet visit takes about twenty to thirty minutes, longer if you linger over the art.

The church is best appreciated in combination with its neighbours. From the Korenmarkt you can look up at the lantern tower, then walk a few minutes to the Graslei and Korenlei quays, to the castle and to the Belfry and the cathedral, which stand together on the other side of the old town. The view from the Sint-Michielsbrug, where all three towers line up, is the best place to understand the composition, and it is especially fine at dusk when the buildings are lit.

The Korenmarkt itself has cafes and a lively atmosphere, so you can pair a short church visit with a coffee. The church is in a pedestrian zone and in the city's low emission area, so check the rules if you are driving, and wear a layer in winter, since stone interiors are cool. The building is tagged as wheelchair accessible by the tourism board, but confirm details with the church if you need specific help.