Many Glacier

Many Glacier is on the northeast side of the park, reached by a twelve-mile road from the village of Babb, and many regulars call it the finest valley in Glacier. Ringed by peaks that rise a mile above the lakes, it holds Swiftcurrent Lake, Lake Josephine, Grinnell Lake and the old Many Glacier Hotel, a big Swiss-chalet style lodge from the railroad era that sits right on the water. The scenery is on the scale of postcards: red argillite cliffs, hanging valleys, waterfalls and, in a few places, the remnants of the glaciers that gave the park its name. It is also prime wildlife country, with moose in the ponds, bighorn sheep and mountain goats on the slopes and a healthy population of grizzly bears that makes bear awareness a daily habit. The audio tour is a convenient companion for the drive in and the walks around the hotel. It explains the glacial geology, the Blackfeet connection to the land, the railroad-era history of the lodge and the best pullouts, which is helpful in a valley where cell service is minimal and rangers are busy.

Most people come to Many Glacier to hike. The easy options are the shoreline walk around Swiftcurrent Lake and the trail along Lake Josephine, and a boat shuttle across the lakes in summer shortens the walk to Grinnell Lake. The big objectives are Grinnell Glacier, a long climb that rewards you with views of the glacier and the turquoise lake below it, and Iceberg Lake, where chunks of ice can float even in midsummer. Both are full-day hikes in grizzly country, so carry bear spray, hike in a group and start early.

Logistics matter. The road in from Babb is narrow and slow, and the valley fills quickly in July and August, so parking at trailheads can be tight. Visitors often make Many Glacier the base for two or three nights, either in the hotel (which books out well in advance) or in nearby lodging at St. Mary and Babb. The area is farther from Whitefish and Kalispell than the west side, so plan on a long drive around the park or over the Sun Road, depending on conditions.

Time your visit with the weather and the crowds in mind. Early morning is the best period for wildlife and calm reflections on Swiftcurrent Lake, and the light on the peaks can be extraordinary just after sunrise. By midday, parking lots fill and trails get busy, so take a break for lunch or a rest on the lodge porch, then head out again in the late afternoon when the crowds thin.

If you only have a day, choose one hike rather than trying several, and take the boat shuttle to keep your energy for the climb. Photographers will want a telephoto lens for wildlife and a wide-angle for the valley. Remember that the east side is windier and often cooler than the west, so bring a windproof layer. Finally, talk to a ranger at the entrance or at the visitor area for current trail conditions and wildlife reports.