The Alpujarras are the high valleys on the southern side of the Sierra Nevada, a region of steep gorges, terraced fields and white villages that look from a distance like scattered sugar cubes on the hillside. After the fall of Granada in 1492 the Moors retreated here, and the villages kept their Moorish character for centuries. The houses have flat roofs of grey clay, small chimneys and narrow lanes laid out to give shade, a style that visitors often compare with the Berber villages of the Atlas. Water still runs down the mountain through channels that the Moors dug and maintained, feeding orchards of chestnuts, almonds and cherries. A day trip from Granada usually takes in three of the best known villages, Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira, which cling to the walls of the Poqueira gorge at around a thousand to fifteen hundred metres. You stroll through lanes lined with weavers' workshops, where the colourful jarapa rugs are made on wooden looms, and with small shops selling cured ham, chestnut sweets, honey and local wine. The drive in is part of the pleasure, climbing from the plain of Granada through olive groves and then up into forest, with views of the snow-capped peaks above.
Getting there and the route
The villages lie about an hour and a half to two hours south of Granada by road, and most day trips go by minibus or small coach with a guide. The final stretch is winding and steep, so travellers prone to car sickness should sit near the front and bring water. Check your confirmation for the meeting point, departure time and whether lunch is included, since arrangements vary between operators.
NaNFood
This is ham country, and the high mountain air is used to cure the hams of Trevélez, the highest village in Spain's mainland, a little further along the valley. Typical dishes include migas, a rustic fried breadcrumb dish, roasted lamb and goat, trout, and desserts made with chestnuts and local honey. If lunch is optional, book it, since the village restaurants fill quickly at midday.
Planning tips
The weather changes with altitude, and the villages can be cool and windy even when Granada is warm, so bring a layer. Wear shoes with grip for the cobbled lanes. The trip suits most ages and fitness levels, as there are no long walks in the standard itinerary. For hikers, a longer stay in the area opens up trails along the water channels and up towards the high peaks.
Choosing your day
Spring brings blossom and green slopes, autumn brings chestnuts and golden light, and winter can bring snow on the peaks above the villages, which is beautiful but can make roads slower. Summer is the easiest season for the drive, and the mountain air is a relief after the heat of the city. If you prefer a slower pace, consider staying a night in the villages and walking one of the water-channel paths.
What to expect
The experience
A guided full-day excursion by minibus or coach to the Poqueira gorge villages, with free time in each for shops, lunch and views.
Best time
Spring and autumn for mild weather and green terraces; summer is cooler in the mountains than in the city.
How long
A full day, with about three hours of driving in total.
Tips
Bring a warm layer, shoes with grip and cash for the village shops; book lunch if it is optional.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Visitors who want mountain scenery and a taste of rural Andalusia without driving.
- Families
- Good for families, as there are no long walks and plenty to look at.
- Couples
- Scenic, unhurried and good for lunch with a view.
- Pair with
- The Sierra Nevada or the Alhambra on neighbouring days.
- Time needed
- A full day.
Good questions
How far are the Alpujarras from Granada?+
About an hour and a half to two hours by road, depending on the villages visited and the traffic on the mountain roads.
Which villages do tours visit?+
Most visit Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira in the Poqueira gorge, sometimes with a stop at a viewpoint or a further village.
Is lunch included?+
It varies. Check your confirmation, and book lunch if it is offered as an option.
Is the trip suitable for children?+
Yes. The walks are short and gentle, though the winding road can upset small children who get car sick.
What should I buy there?+
Cured ham, chestnut sweets, honey and the handwoven jarapa rugs are the classic local products.
