Guadix is a small city about an hour east of Granada, set on a dry plateau at the foot of the Sierra Nevada. It is best known for its Barrio de las Cuevas, a district where thousands of people live in houses dug into soft clay hillsides, with white chimneys poking out of the slopes like strange flowers. But Guadix is also a place with a much older story, and a guided tour of its Roman theatre and its Alcazaba brings that story to life. The Roman town of Acci was a Roman colony, and the remains of its theatre were found only in the twentieth century, tucked beneath the modern streets. The Alcazaba is the other highlight, a hilltop fortress that was part of the defences of the Moorish kingdom of Granada and later passed to the Christian crown. From its walls you look over the rooftops of the city, the cathedral, the plain and the cave district. A guide connects the layers of history, explaining how Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Christians each left a mark and how the cave dwellings grew out of a practical answer to a landscape with little wood and a harsh climate. The visit is compact and relaxed, and it makes a good half day with time for lunch.
Getting there
Guadix lies on the road and rail corridor east of Granada, about an hour by car. Many visitors drive, since parking near the centre is easy compared with Granada, and the tour begins in the town. There are also buses and trains from Granada, but the schedule can be limited, so check times in advance. Your confirmation gives the meeting point, usually at the tourist information point or at the monument entrances.
NaNThe Alcazaba
The fortress is a classic Moorish stronghold with towers, walls and a courtyard, built on the highest point of the town. It has been restored and now serves as a viewpoint and visitor site. The cathedral nearby is worth a look, with a mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles added over several centuries.
The cave houses
Although this tour focuses on the Roman and Moorish monuments, the cave district is a short walk from the centre, and many visitors add a visit to the cave museum or to a cave dwelling that opens to the public. Rooms stay cool in summer and warm in winter, which explains why people have lived this way for generations. Wear sturdy shoes, bring sun protection in summer and allow time for lunch, as the region is known for hearty stews and cured meats.
Planning the day
Guadix is a good stop on a wider eastern loop that might include the cave houses, the cathedral and a drive across the Marquesado plain, with the Sierra Nevada rising to the south. Lunch in town is simple and good, with hearty mountain dishes. If you are driving, set the satnav for the old centre, park once and walk, since the sights are close together and traffic in the narrow streets can be slow.
What to expect
The experience
A guided visit to the Roman theatre of Acci and the Moorish Alcazaba, with views over the town and the cave district.
Best time
Spring and autumn; summer afternoons are very hot on the plateau.
How long
Two to three hours for the tour, plus travel time from Granada.
Tips
Bring sun protection, wear sturdy shoes and add time for the cave district and lunch.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers who want to see Roman and Moorish layers in one small town.
- Families
- Children enjoy the fortress and the cave houses nearby.
- Couples
- Quiet and atmospheric, with good views from the walls.
- Pair with
- The cave district and a long lunch.
- Time needed
- Half a day, plus travel from Granada.
Good questions
How far is Guadix from Granada?+
About an hour by road to the east, with buses and trains also available on limited schedules.
Are the cave houses part of this tour?+
The tour covers the Roman theatre and the Alcazaba. The cave district is a short walk away and is easy to add on your own.
Do people really live in the caves?+
Yes. Thousands of residents live in cave houses, which stay cool in summer and warm in winter.
Is it suitable for children?+
Yes. The sites are compact and the fortress and caves interest most children.
Can I do it as a day trip from Granada?+
Yes. Combine the tour with lunch and the cave district for a relaxed half day or a full day.
