Huatulco sits in the state of Oaxaca, which is celebrated across Mexico for its food, and the coast adds fresh seafood and a laid-back beach-restaurant culture. Eating well here does not require a big budget or a plan. It does help to know the three main settings: simple palm-thatched restaurants on the beaches, the cafes and small restaurants around the plaza in La Crucecita, and the resort dining rooms along the bays. This guide stays on the Huatulco coast and does not cover Oaxaca City.
Beach restaurants
The most memorable meals are often the simplest. At bays such as Maguey and at Playa La Entrega, thatched restaurants serve grilled fish, shrimp, ceviche, fish tacos and cold drinks, usually with loungers and umbrellas included if you order food. Menus are short and focus on what came in that morning. Many take only cash or add a card surcharge, so carry pesos. Arrive before the lunch rush at weekends, and ask what the catch of the day is. Check the price per kilo for whole fish before ordering, because it is easy to order more than you intend.
La Crucecita
The town behind the bays is where locals eat, shop and gather. The plaza is lined with cafes and restaurants, and on warm evenings it fills with families and vendors. You will find Oaxacan staples such as tlayudas, which are large crisp tortillas with toppings, memelas, tamales, moles and quesillo, the stringy Oaxacan cheese, alongside tacos and pizza. A guided food walk is the easiest way to taste many of these dishes in one evening and learn what you are eating. It works well early in your stay, because the guide can point you to places to return to. The covered market is another good place for a cheap, hearty lunch.
Coffee and chocolate
The hills behind Huatulco grow coffee, and a coffee plantation tour lets you see the plants, learn about the roasting process and taste the results. It is a cool, slow morning that contrasts well with a beach day. Chocolate is also a local tradition, often served as a hot drink, sometimes with cinnamon, and you can buy beans, bars and roasted coffee in La Crucecita to take home. Look for small producers and ask where the beans were grown.
What to drink
Oaxaca is mezcal country, and you will find mezcal on most menus, often served neat with orange slices and a salt made with ground chilli. Sip it slowly. Local beer, fresh fruit waters and coconut water are common on the beach, and cocktails such as micheladas are popular. Stick to bottled or purified water, and ask for drinks without ice if you are unsure of the source, though restaurants that cater to visitors normally use purified ice. Try aguas frescas made with fruit such as hibiscus, tamarind or lime for a cool, non-alcoholic option.
Resorts and all-inclusive stays
Many hotels include meals and drinks, and it is easy to eat well without leaving the property. Secrets, Dreams Huatulco, Las Brisas and Binniguenda all offer all-inclusive plans, and Camino Real Zaashila has some rate plans that include meals. If you are on an all-inclusive plan, step out at least once or twice to eat in town, because local restaurants offer flavours that resort buffets rarely match. Quinta Real and Hotel Villa Blanca charge for breakfast separately, so compare costs with the cafes in La Crucecita.
Practical tips
Choose busy places with a steady turnover of customers, wash or sanitise your hands before eating, and ask about spice levels if you are sensitive to chilli. Tipping is customary in restaurants, so check whether a service charge has already been added to the bill. Dietary needs such as vegetarian or gluten-free eating are manageable in tourist areas, but explain clearly, since lard and meat stocks are common in traditional dishes. Carry small bills for market stalls and street food, and keep an eye on opening hours, because some beach restaurants close in the late afternoon.
Putting it together
A good three-meal day might begin with coffee and a pastry or eggs at a plaza cafe, continue with grilled fish and a cold drink on a beach such as Maguey or La Entrega, and end with a casual dinner of tlayudas or tacos in La Crucecita. Add a coffee plantation morning or a food walk on a day when you want to learn rather than simply eat. Ask your hotel or guide for current favourites, since small restaurants change hands and chefs move on. Above all, be curious and try one new dish a day.
