Catskills Scenic Byway

The Catskills rise west of the Hudson as a broad wall of old, rounded mountains, and the best way to get a sense of them is to drive. A self-guided audio tour of the Catskills scenic byway turns a drive along the central mountain roads into a narrated journey, with commentary on the landscape, the villages, the history of resorts and the water system that supplies New York City. You set the pace, stop where you like and pick the places for lunch, a short hike or a swim. It is one of the least expensive ways to spend a day in the mountains, and it fits easily into a stay based in Kingston, Woodstock or Phoenicia.

The route follows highways and local roads through valleys and over passes, with views of peaks, streams and farmland. Stories along the way include the Catskills' role as a vacation region, the building of reservoirs that reshaped the valleys, and the artists and writers who settled here. Because the format is audio, you can stop at overlooks, wander into a village or follow a side road without losing your place. Cell coverage can be patchy in the mountains, so download the tour before you leave civilization.

A drive like this works best with a few anchor stops. Small towns along the route have cafes, general stores and bakeries, and you can find trailheads, waterfalls and swimming holes within a short drive of the main road. In autumn the roadsides burn with color and traffic builds on weekends, so start early. In winter, check road conditions and avoid steep side roads after snow. Summer brings green hillsides, festivals and long evenings.

The audio tour is not a substitute for a guided hike or a canyon adventure, but it is a good first day. Use it to learn the layout of the mountains, spot places you would like to return to, and pick a base. Fill the tank before you go, bring snacks and water, and allow more time than the mileage suggests, because mountain roads are slow and the views will draw you to the shoulder more often than you expect.

Because the format is flexible, it is easy to stretch the day into a full circuit. Combine the audio drive with a swim at a local swimming hole in summer, a short walk to a waterfall, a stop at a farm stand, and an early dinner in a village such as Phoenicia or Woodstock.

In winter, the route is quieter and the views are open through the bare trees, but plan for shorter daylight and carry a blanket, a flashlight and a charged phone in the car. In every season, filling the tank before you leave town is a wise precaution.

The history is worth learning as you go. The Catskills were once a major resort region, with grand hotels, bungalow colonies and a famed borscht-belt entertainment circuit, and traces of that past appear along the route in faded signs, restored lodges and revived towns. The reservoirs that supply New York City's water also shaped the landscape, drowning villages and creating the long blue views that drivers see from the overlooks.