British Residency and Paigah Tombs

Not every important place in Hyderabad is in the Old City. Two sites on the heritage trail that many visitors miss are the British Residency, a grand colonial building near the river, and the Paigah Tombs, a group of delicate marble and stucco mausoleums in the southern suburbs. The heritage tour linked here combines them with museums on a full-day itinerary, which makes it an excellent option for travellers who have already seen Charminar and Golconda and want a deeper picture of the city. The Residency was built around 1803 for James Achilles Kirkpatrick, the British Resident at the Nizam's court, in a Palladian style with columns, a large portico and a sweeping staircase. It is best known today for the love story of Kirkpatrick and a Hyderabadi noblewoman, Khair-un-Nissa, which was told in the book The White Mughal and which is the subject of a separate walking tour in the city. The building later became part of a women's college, so access can be limited and varies, but the architecture and the story make it a worthwhile stop.

The Paigah Tombs are the highlight for many visitors. The Paigahs were a noble family closely tied to the Nizams, and they built their tombs in a peaceful compound where the pierced marble screens, stucco work and carved lattices give each mausoleum the look of lace in stone.

The patterns combine Mughal, Deccani and European influences, and the cool, quiet atmosphere is a pleasing contrast with the energy of the bazaars. Photographers should visit in the morning or late afternoon, when the light on the lattices is best, and respect the fact that the site is a family burial ground.

A guide adds a lot here, since there is little signage and much of the interest lies in the stories. The heritage tour covers the history of the Residency and of the British role in Hyderabad, the Paigah family and its alliance with the Nizams, and the culture of the period, and it can also include museums for a broader perspective on the princely state.

As both sites involve limited access, an experienced guide who knows the practicalities, the opening arrangements and the best vantage points makes a significant difference. Confirm in advance what is currently open.

The tour pairs well with an evening walk by Hussain Sagar or a meal in the Old City, and it is particularly good for repeat visitors, history readers and anyone who has read the White Mughal and wants to see where the story took place.

If the story of the Residency interests you, consider reading The White Mughal by William Dalrymple before the trip. It brings to life the political intrigue of the Nizam's court and the personalities of the people who lived in the building, and it makes the visit far richer than a quick look at a colonial facade.