Laad Bazaar and the City of Pearls

Laad Bazaar runs west from Charminar toward the gates of Chowmahalla Palace, and it is the busiest and most colourful shopping street in the Old City. It is known above all for its lac bangles, made from resin and studded with stones or tiny mirrors, which are stacked in the thousands on the shopfronts, along with bridal wear, fabrics, perfumes, silverware and the pearls that gave Hyderabad its nickname as the City of Pearls. The name Laad comes from the lac used to make the bangles, and the bazaar has been trading since the Qutb Shahi era, when it served the royal court and the city's growing merchant community. The pearl trade is the other great tradition. The Nizams were avid collectors, and under their patronage Hyderabad became a centre for cutting, grading and stringing pearls from the Gulf and from elsewhere, as well as for the engraved jewellery called jadau. Today some shops sell natural pearls and the cultured and freshwater pearls that are far more common and affordable, and a visit can mean the difference between a good buy and a poor one. Knowing what you are looking at, which a good guide can teach, is worth more here than in almost any other bazaar in the country.

The guided walk linked here, called the City of Pearls Walking Tour, is built around the trade. A guide who knows the shopkeepers can explain the grades and types of pearls, the difference between natural, cultured and freshwater stones, how to test a pearl, and what price ranges are realistic, and can introduce you to reputable sellers rather than leaving you to sort out the best from the worst. This is a valuable service because the bazaar is intense, and shopkeepers can be insistent, particularly with first-time visitors.

Beyond pearls, there is plenty to see. Look for the bangle makers who set stones into hot lac by hand, the bridal shops with elaborate embroidered outfits, the stalls selling attar, the traditional perfume oils, and the small workshops tucked up side lanes. The street also leads to the Irani cafes and food stalls that make the Old City a good place for a snack, so plan to stop for tea and biscuits, a plate of kebabs or the sweet seasonal dishes when they appear.

Shops are most active in the afternoon and evening, and many close on Fridays or keep shorter hours, so ask your guide.

Practical tips help you enjoy it. Carry cash in small notes, keep your valuables close and wear comfortable shoes for crowded pavements. Bargaining is expected, but be polite and aim for a fair price rather than the lowest possible. Ask for receipts for expensive purchases, check weight and quality, and be wary of anyone who claims a pearl is a rare natural stone at a bargain price.

Early evening is a particularly atmospheric time, as the area lights up and the crowds grow, but the lanes are also congested, so go with a plan and a companion. Combine the bazaar with Charminar and Mecca Masjid for a full Old City outing.

Sellers can tell a good story, so it helps to decide your budget and the type of piece you want before you start. If you are buying pearls as an investment rather than a souvenir, ask for a certificate from a recognised laboratory. For gifts, strings of freshwater pearls, silver anklets and a set of lac bangles are easy to pack and reasonably priced.