Iquitos is unlike anywhere else in Peru. It is a city of several hundred thousand people in the northern Amazon, and it cannot be reached by road from the rest of the country. Visitors arrive by plane from Lima or by boat along the great rivers, and once they are here, the river, the forest and the heat set the pace. Mototaxis buzz through crowded streets, riverside markets overflow with fish and fruit, and rubber-boom mansions with tiled facades stand beside modern shops. It is also the starting point for lodges, cruises and expeditions into one of the richest natural regions on Earth. Here is what a first-time visitor should know.
Plan the trip around the forest, and use the city as a base
Most visitors spend two to three nights in Iquitos itself and two to five nights on the river or in the forest. The city offers the Belen market, the Plaza de Armas, the Malecon, a few small wildlife centers and good food, while the real wilderness lies beyond. If you have only a few days, a one-night lodge stay plus a city day gives a satisfying taste. If you have a week, add a reserve trip such as Pacaya-Samiria or a river cruise.
Book the big pieces ahead
Flights to Iquitos from Lima are the main way in, and they can fill in busy periods. Cruises and some lodges sell out well in advance, especially in the higher-demand months. Day trips, markets and city walks can usually be arranged after you arrive, but it is wise to confirm a few key bookings before you travel. Use operators with clear descriptions, reasonable group sizes, experienced local guides and written inclusions, and be wary of street offers that are vague about what you will get.
Money
The currency is the Peruvian sol. Cards work in better hotels and restaurants, but markets, mototaxis, small restaurants and tips run on cash. ATMs are common in the center, though they sometimes run out or limit withdrawals, so carry a reserve of small notes. Bring clean, undamaged bills if you carry US dollars, since some lodges and tours accept them. Tip guides, boatmen and cooks, who rely on gratuities, and keep small notes for that purpose.
Health
Iquitos lies in a tropical zone, and health advice for visitors changes. Talk to a travel clinic several weeks before you go about vaccinations, including yellow fever, which is commonly advised for jungle areas, and about malaria precautions. Use insect repellent, wear long light clothing, drink bottled or treated water and be careful with raw food and ice if your stomach is sensitive. Bring a basic medical kit, rehydration salts, sun protection and any prescription medicines. Check your own government's travel advice for Peru and for the Loreto region before you go.
Heat and rain
The city is hot and humid all year, and rain can arrive at any time, though the wetter months are roughly from November to May. Pack light, quick-drying clothes, a rain jacket, a hat, sunglasses and comfortable closed shoes. Rooms with air conditioning make nights far more pleasant, and a few hours in the middle of the day in a cool place is an easy way to cope with the heat. See the best-time guide for how river levels change the experience.
Getting around
Mototaxis, the three-wheeled motorbike taxis, are the main way to get around the city, and fares are cheap. Agree the price before you set off, and use registered vehicles at night. Taxis also run, and walking is pleasant in the center during the cooler hours. For the river, use licensed boat operators with life jackets and a clear itinerary, and avoid unlicensed offers at the waterfront. The airport is close to the city, and your hotel can arrange a pickup if you ask.
Safety and respect
Iquitos is generally relaxed, but petty theft happens, especially in crowded markets and ports. Leave valuables in the hotel safe, carry little cash and keep phones and cameras out of sight in busy places. Be thoughtful with wildlife: do not buy souvenirs made from feathers, skins or shells, avoid photographs with wild animals and choose rescue centers with a clear conservation mission. In communities, ask before photographing people and buy crafts directly from makers.
Make a sensible first itinerary
A good first plan is a morning at the Belen market, an afternoon walk along the Malecon with a sunset boat ride, a day trip to Monkey Island or the butterfly farm, and then a two or three-night lodge stay or a reserve trip. Keep a spare day for weather and delays, and enjoy the slower pace. The Amazon rewards patience, and the more time you give it, the more it shows you.