Iquitos is the largest city in the world that cannot be reached by road, and that fact shapes every trip. It sits on the Amazon River in the northeast of Peru, surrounded by forest and water, and visitors reach it by air or by boat. Once there, mototaxis, small taxis and boats do the work. This guide covers how to arrive, how to move around and how to stay healthy and secure.
By air
Most visitors fly from Lima, a flight of roughly two hours, and the Iquitos airport is close to the city. Flights can be crowded in busy periods, and weather sometimes causes delays, so build a buffer into any onward connections. Book early, carry your essentials in hand luggage and keep copies of your documents. Some visitors also arrive on connecting flights from other Peruvian cities. Ask your hotel to arrange an airport pickup or use a registered taxi or mototaxi, agreeing the fare in advance.
By river
Travelers with more time can arrive by boat from places such as Yurimaguas or Pucallpa, on cargo and passenger vessels that take several days. Conditions are basic, with hammocks or simple cabins, shared bathrooms and basic food, and schedules vary. It is a rich and slow way to experience the Amazon, but it requires patience, preparation and flexibility. Bring a hammock, a mosquito net, a padlock, snacks, water treatment and a good book, and keep valuables secure. Ask about safety and schedules before you commit.
Getting around the city
Mototaxis are the main transport, and fares are low. Agree on the price before you start, and use registered vehicles at night. Regular taxis are also available, and walking is pleasant in the center during the cooler hours, along the Malecon and around the Plaza de Armas. Keep an eye on your belongings in busy areas, and avoid poorly lit streets after dark. Your hotel can arrange trusted drivers for longer trips.
On the water
Boat travel is part of almost every excursion. Use licensed operators, check that life jackets are available, and confirm the itinerary and the weather plan. Be careful with unlicensed offers at the waterfront, which may be cheap but vague on safety and inclusions. On smaller boats, sit as directed, keep your bag dry and listen to the crew. For longer trips, ask about communication and emergency equipment.
Health
Speak to a travel clinic well before departure. Yellow fever vaccination is commonly advised for jungle areas, and malaria precautions may be recommended for Loreto, along with other routine vaccines. Use repellent with an effective ingredient, wear long light clothing and sleep under a net where advised. Drink bottled or treated water, eat at busy places and carry rehydration salts. Heat can be intense, so rest, drink often and protect your skin. Carry any prescription medicines in their original packaging, and check that your travel insurance covers remote areas and medical evacuation.
Money and connectivity
The sol is the local currency, and cash is king in markets, mototaxis and small restaurants. Cards work in better hotels and restaurants, and ATMs are available in the center. Wifi is common in hotels and cafes, though speeds vary, and mobile coverage is good in the city but patchy on the river and in the forest. Download maps and documents in advance and tell someone your plans before a long trip.
Safety and respect
Iquitos is relaxed, but pickpocketing happens in crowded places. Keep valuables in the hotel safe, carry small amounts of cash and use a money belt or a front pocket in markets. Check your own government's travel advice for Peru and Loreto before you go. Respect local people and the environment: ask before photographing, buy crafts directly from makers, avoid products from wildlife and follow the rules of reserves and communities.
Final tips
Pack light, keep a spare day in your plans for delays, confirm your tours before you travel and store spare luggage at your hotel when you go into the forest. Learn a few Spanish phrases, bring patience and carry a sense of humor. Iquitos is a place where plans change with the river, and visitors who accept that tend to enjoy it most.
Before you go
Check that your passport is valid for the length of your trip, arrange travel insurance with medical cover for remote areas and confirm your flights and tours in writing. Leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home, carry emergency contacts and keep photos of your documents in a secure place. A little preparation costs almost nothing and gives you the freedom to relax once you arrive.