Parenzana Trail

From 1902 to 1935 a narrow gauge railway known as the Parenzana connected Trieste with Poreč, winding through Istria's hills and valleys. The tracks are gone, but the route survives as a cycling and walking trail, with old stations, stone viaducts and tunnels that make for a distinctive ride. A guided tour takes you along a stretch of the route, stopping at points of interest, such as hill villages, vineyards and farms, and explaining how the train carried salt, wine, olive oil and passengers. The gradients are gentle, thanks to the railway engineers, which makes it accessible to casual cyclists, and e-bikes are often available. The reward is a rolling ride through quintessential Istrian landscape, with long views and plenty of stops for tastings.

The scenery changes with every kilometre. Cypress-lined roads give way to vineyards and olive groves, farmland opens into oak woods, and occasionally a tunnel plunges you into cool darkness before delivering you back into sunshine. Several tunnels are lit, but a headlamp is still useful. Stone viaducts carry the trail over valleys, with views of villages perched on hilltops.

Along the way, you can stop to taste wine or olive oil, visit a farm, or pause at a cafe in a small village. The ride can be done in sections, so tours vary from two or three hours to full days.

Preparation is easy. The trail surface is a mix of gravel, compacted earth and asphalt, so a hybrid or gravel bike works well, and e-bikes are popular for those who prefer less effort. Bring sun protection, plenty of water, a light jacket for tunnels and a puncture kit if riding independently.

Guided tours provide bikes, helmets and support, and they handle transfers back to the starting point, which is a big convenience given the one-way nature of the line. Booking ahead is wise in peak months, and spring and autumn are especially pleasant with milder temperatures.

For families, shorter sections suit children who can ride confidently, and electric bikes help keep everyone together. For keen cyclists, longer routes connect with the wider network of Istrian cycle paths and offer climbs and descents. The trail pairs well with a visit to a hill town like Motovun or Groznjan, which sit along or near the old line, and with a tasting or lunch at a farm.

You will likely finish with a sense of both the engineering ambition of the early twentieth century and the gentle rhythm of rural life. It is one of the best ways to see the Istrian interior without a car.

For history lovers, the story of the line is part of the appeal. The railway was built under Austro-Hungarian rule to connect remote communities and carry goods, and its narrow gauge allowed it to follow the contours of the land. At its peak it linked dozens of stations, and it was eventually closed when roads and motor transport took over.

Today signs, restored stations and small museums along the route recall its heyday. A guide can point out engineering details, from stone abutments to the curving embankments, and tell stories of the people who rode the train to markets and weddings.