Lixouri and Paliki

Most visitors to Kefalonia never cross the gulf of Argostoli, which is a pity, because the Paliki peninsula holds some of the island's best beaches and a more traditional pace of life. A short car ferry links Argostoli with Lixouri, the peninsula's main town, in under half an hour. Lixouri has an airy main square, a tidy waterfront, and a museum and library dedicated to the area's cultural history. Beyond the town, the coast opens into broad bays: Petani, a long sweep of pale stones and clear water, and Xi, famed for its red-ochre sand and shallow, warm sea. The landscape is gentler than the mountains of the east, with wide views and open skies. It is a place for slow days, long swims, and sunsets over the Ionian.

Xi Beach is the standout, with its distinctive reddish sand and cliffs of soft clay. Locals sometimes smear the clay on their skin, treating it as a natural spa. The sea is shallow and warm, which suits children. Petani, on the northwest coast, has bigger, brighter pebbles and a more dramatic setting, with steep green slopes behind and a few tavernas on the shore. Both are popular but spacious.

Cultural stops include the monastery of Kipoureon, perched on a headland with sea views, and small villages with churches and cafes. Lixouri itself was rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake, so the buildings are modern, but the square is lively in the evening. Several seafood restaurants line the waterfront.

Getting there is part of the fun. The ferry runs frequently in season, and the crossing offers views back to Argostoli. If you bring a car, you can circle the peninsula in a day, stopping at beaches and viewpoints. Without a car, taxis and local buses are available, though schedules are limited. It is also possible to stay on the peninsula, in quieter accommodation than the busier east, and to use it as a base for the beaches.

Swim in calm weather, and respect warning flags on the west coast, where the sea can be rougher. Take sun protection, as shade is limited. In autumn, light is soft and the beaches empty, making Paliki a good low-season choice.

If you plan a full day, consider starting with a morning swim at Xi, a late lunch at a waterfront taverna in Lixouri, and an afternoon at Petani before catching a sunset ferry back. Take care with timetables, since the last crossing varies by season. A picnic from an Argostoli bakery is an easy way to keep costs low, and a hat and water are essential on the open beaches.

Add a visit to the Kipoureon monastery for its panoramic terrace, a small museum or library stop in Lixouri if you enjoy local history, and a late swim at whichever beach seems calmest. Remember that the light at sunset over the western sea is some of the best on the island, so plan your return crossing accordingly or stay for a seafood dinner. Check the weather before choosing a beach, as the western coast can be exposed to swell, and ask locals which bay is sheltered that day.

Pack snacks and water for the beaches, bring a book for lazy hours, and keep the car fuelled, because petrol stations are fewer on the peninsula than around Argostoli.