Sami and Agia Efimia

Sami and Agia Efimia sit on the island's east coast, facing Ithaca across a strip of sheltered water. Sami is the larger of the two, a busy harbour with a long waterfront promenade lined with tavernas, a ferry terminal for Patras and Ithaca, and a base for visiting the nearby caves and beaches. Agia Efimia, a short drive north, is smaller and calmer, a pretty marina village with a pebble beach and a handful of restaurants. Both feel more local and less polished than the northern showpieces, and they make comfortable bases for visitors who like to be near the water. The sailing day tour linked here departs from Agia Efimia and heads for Ithaca with swimming stops and a meal on board, a laid-back way to see both islands.

Sami has a modest ancient history, with remains of ancient Same on the hill above the town. A small archaeological collection and the ruins offer a quiet morning for anyone interested. Most visitors, though, come for the harbour and the surroundings. The caves of Melissani and Drogarati are minutes away, and Antisamos Beach is a short drive. Evenings are lively on the waterfront, with fresh fish, music, and families strolling.

Agia Efimia is a gentler place. A small marina sits at the centre, and boats come and go through the day. Cafes line the quay, and the beach is pleasant for a swim. It is a good base for walks in the hills and a launching point for sailing trips. The village has a handful of shops and rooms, and the overall mood is relaxed.

Sailing from Agia Efimia is a pleasure, since the strait between Kefalonia and Ithaca is sheltered and scenic. The tour usually includes lunch, swimming, and time ashore on Ithaca, with a skipper and crew handling the sails. Beginners are welcome, and the pace is easy. Summer is the best time, and bookings are wise in peak months.

If you stay in this part of the island, you will benefit from quieter evenings and quicker access to the north-east. Tavernas here tend to be more modest and local, and prices are friendlier than in Fiskardo. Bring a car if you can, since public transport is limited, and book ferries ahead in summer.

Both towns suit travelers who prefer to stay in a place that feels lived-in rather than curated. You can buy groceries from local shops, watch fishermen mend nets, and join the evening promenade with residents. In shoulder seasons, many places stay open, and the prices are lower. If you plan to use public transport, check timetables carefully, since services are limited, and consider renting a car for at least part of your stay.

Ferry travelers should arrive at the port with a margin of time, as boarding queues for cars can form in peak season. Keep your ticket handy, listen for announcements, and check the weather forecast if you plan to sail, since strong winds can delay departures. For sailing days, bring a hat, sunscreen, a light jacket, and swim gear, and eat a light breakfast to avoid seasickness. Some travelers like to visit the harbour at dawn, when fishermen unload their catch and the water is perfectly still.

Stock up on picnic supplies in Sami before heading to the caves or beaches, because shops are sparse farther out.